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sinicysm

Member Since 11 Nov 2002
Offline Last Active Mar 13 2017 07:35 AM
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Topics I've Started

Haltech e11v2 + sr20 patch loom

07 March 2017 - 02:14 PM

Selling a Haltech e11v2 ecu with haltech patch loom for a sr20 s14 series 1. Comes with a GM 3 bar map sensor and air temp sensor. Will also throw in a s14 series 1 engine loom so you can run this on any VCT motor with minimal mods.

$550 shipped anywhere in Aus

Attached File  $_20.JPG   44.56K   76 downloads

Works Bell Rapfix GTC-R

06 June 2016 - 12:40 PM

Selling my Works Bell Rapfix GTC-R flipper. You just pulled the lever and the steering flips out allowing you to get .

Here is the link

http://www.worksbell...apfix/gtc_r.htm

i paid $550 new for this, asking $360 shipped anywhere in australia.

0406753928

Attached File  large659.jpg   116.06K   121 downloads

SR20 Fresh rebuild - start up problems

29 March 2016 - 08:20 AM

Hi everyone,

Recently i rebuilt my sr20, on the first start up it fires up rough, like its only on 3 cyclinders, hard to rev up (delayed) and soon as you back off the accelerator it instantly stalls.

ive done the typical checks such as

-pulled all the coil packs out and checked each for spark, all good.
-pulled the fuel rail out and connected the injectors to power , they were'nt leaking and the spray is good
-New fuel filter and new filter sock on the pump as the old ones were full of crud
-Fuel pressure at the reg is good (aeromotive reg)
-triple checked all the earths
-fuel lines connected the correct orientation
-installed the CAS twice to ensure ive done that correctly
-checked for air leaks
-checked compression (perfect 148 across all cyclinders)

So to me it kind of points to a timing issue?. I run a haltech e11v2 (with patch harness) with the laptop connected i seem to get good RPM signal so im thinking its not a faulty CAS.

The only things that have changed since last time it was running, is that i dont have the OEM knock sensor connected (been told that haltech ps1000 and the older e11s dont use the factory knock sensor) and i have deleted VCT now running S13 PRO Cams. Also with the current tune thats on my ecu with X timing set, would this need to be zero'd out?

would any of the ablove factors cause the motor now to idle/run smoothly?

I just want to ensure the car is mechanically running right before i take it to the tuners.


Here is a pic of my timing chain, / sprockets.
Attached File  IMG_0170.JPG   841.35K   144 downloads

sr20 head install - missing head alignment dowels, redo ?

22 February 2016 - 08:52 AM

hi guys

just finished buttoning up my sr20 im rebuilding, looking at my old block yesterday i realised that i never reinstalled the head to block locating dowels. (two of them) i was just wondering if this matters now? im using ARP head studs and tomei headgasket, i really dont want to have to pull the head off again after ive just torqued and sealed it all up.

i installed the head with 2 ARP studs in the back of the block so this should of secured the gasket correctly, im more worried about a bigger gap not being taking up on the bottom of the stud / gasket now

SR Rod clearances + yes ive searched

19 January 2016 - 07:48 AM

hi guys,

rebuilding my sr atm, and running STD size ACL rod bearings, using scat rods with ARP 2000 bolts.

at 50ft torque setting im getting clearances of 0.025mm ~ 0.9 thou. Nissan FSM stipulates that 0.020mm to 0.045 (0.8 thou - 1.8 thou)

My crank hasnt been ground, only linished. After doing some research it seems that alot of ppl run up in the bigger end of the clearance spectrum. 1.8-2 thou. Should i change my STD ACL bearings to the HX series and get that 1 thou more clearance?. shooting for 300kw at the wheels.

Also im just using plastigauge, it would be hard to say how accurate this is without a proper mic and dial bore gauge

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