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Installing an after market plumbed back bov on 180sx - Hardtuned.net

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Installing an after market plumbed back bov on 180sx 

bov 180sx s13 plumbed back
40 replies to this topic

#1 s15rocket

  • Joined:26-November 11
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:180sx type x

Posted 18 January 2017 - 02:38 AM

I have a turn flow FMIC on my 180sx which utilizes the stock plastic piping. I have been advised by my tuner that I should not run an atmos bov in the usual place for a 180sx which is on the hot side using an adpater pipe (pictured below) as it screws with the readings on the AFM and can cause backfiring etc. He recommened I plumb it back. Problem is installing one on the cold side is very difficult from what I can tell (unlike s14 and s15).

Can I install a plumb back bov on the adapter pipe on the hot side? Where is the best place to plumb back in? Do I need to run a hose all the way over to inlet manifold hose and plumb it in somehow?

I searched for ages looking for pics of an s13 with a plumbed back bov but cant find any good examples. Most seem to be running the atmos one which gives you bad readings. So if anyone has any pics of their set up. Please post it here.

Posted Image

Edited by s15rocket, 18 January 2017 - 02:54 AM.


#2 s15rocket

  • Joined:26-November 11
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:180sx type x

Posted 18 January 2017 - 02:51 AM

Here is a pic of my engine bay and a circled region where this easy fit adapter pipe for the bov will go (as pictured above).

What are my options on my current set up to install an after market plumbed back bov?



Posted Image

#3 pmod

  • Joined:13-May 10
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:Fruity 180sx

Posted 18 January 2017 - 08:53 AM

There is a large steel hose barb on your intake pipe, which is designed for the oem recirculation valve, and will either have a hose connected and plugged, or will simply be plugged.

That's where your recirculation pipe will connect, with the other end connecting to the outlet of the bov. Assuming the picture of the HKS bov you posted isn't your actual bov, but rather that you have that style of hotpipe tube with a mount welded in, all you need do is rotate the bov to a suitable position by releasing the tension of the retention circlip and turning the bov by hand. Refer to the picture below:

Posted Image

Take note of the retention circlip that holds the bov in the socket, rather than the two bolts in the photo you posted. This allows you to rotate it wherever you need it.

As for the pipe connections, well that's easy. Position your bov, measure the angles, then get silicone tubes and aluminium tube adapters to match the angles. Measure the diameter and find anything that suits, whether it be a proper pipe joiner or something unusual like an oil pickup tube:

http://www.ebay.com....yMAAOSw-0xYNSeV

Ideally the tube(s) would have barbs, swaged ends or a couple of small blobs of weld to stop the hose clamps popping off, with the clamps sealing to the smooth surface of the pipe. Another option is actually to use the black ABS plastic 90 degree agriculture barb adapters from Bunnings, at least as a temporary measure if you get stuck.

#4 s15rocket

  • Joined:26-November 11
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:180sx type x

Posted 18 January 2017 - 12:46 PM

No I didn't buy the adapter pipe yet, but if i do I will be sure to get one that has the circlip instead of bolts now so i can easy rotate the bov position. So there is a large steel hose barb on my intake pipe before the AFM? I will have a look and see if I can locate it. Thanks a lot for the advice. Has certainly helped.

Another option I was considering was cutting the big rubber tubing (just after the plastic) on the cold side near the manifold and fitting a metal tube with a welded on adapter for the bov, then using those silcone hose tension springs to keep it all together. Not much room there to accomplish all this though. Could be a real headache.

#5 Varvs

  • Joined:21-December 07
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:97 180sx Type X

Posted 18 January 2017 - 12:48 PM

I have a V band fitting welded to my hot pipe on the underside of it, a turbosmart 38mm universal BOV with the plumb back snout screwed on, and a short length of universal silicone radiator hose that joins it directly to the (GKTech) metal intake pipe.

Previously, I had a side mount with a HKS SSQV fitted to the OEM location. I bought the Plumb-back fitting the for HKS, fitted it, then ran the (same, but longer) hose down the same hole as the cooler piping, and connected it to the same point on the intake.

will take a picture later of current setup if you need it to be clearer.

#6 200VIA

  • Joined:10-January 15
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:S15

Posted 18 January 2017 - 02:36 PM

As Varvs said, a hot pipe with V-band welded fitting, plumb back BOV & short hose recirculating back to your intake would be the ideal setup.
Assuming you have a stock intake pipe, or something of the same design, this will make for a clean simple install.
I have a Turbosmart 34mm BOV with V-band clamp for sale if you decide to go in that direction.

#7 s15rocket

  • Joined:26-November 11
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:180sx type x

Posted 18 January 2017 - 04:01 PM

View PostVarvs, on 18 January 2017 - 12:48 PM, said:

I have a V band fitting welded to my hot pipe on the underside of it, a turbosmart 38mm universal BOV with the plumb back snout screwed on, and a short length of universal silicone radiator hose that joins it directly to the (GKTech) metal intake pipe.

Previously, I had a side mount with a HKS SSQV fitted to the OEM location. I bought the Plumb-back fitting the for HKS, fitted it, then ran the (same, but longer) hose down the same hole as the cooler piping, and connected it to the same point on the intake.

will take a picture later of current setup if you need it to be clearer.

A few pics would be great! Would love to see what you have done. As this definitely sounds like the best option.

Good news also, I found the stock recirculation valve. Didn't even know it was there! Was hidden underneath and blocked off with a plastic cap just the as the moderator above had mentioned. Was put there by the previous owner.

View Post200VIA, on 18 January 2017 - 02:36 PM, said:

As Varvs said, a hot pipe with V-band welded fitting, plumb back BOV & short hose recirculating back to your intake would be the ideal setup.
Assuming you have a stock intake pipe, or something of the same design, this will make for a clean simple install.
I have a Turbosmart 34mm BOV with V-band clamp for sale if you decide to go in that direction.


Well turbosmart is definitely my bov of choice. What colour is it? Its a plumb back? I'd prefer black but blue would probably be okay as you will barely even be able to see it anyway.

Is this the one you're talking about? Do I have to get a hot pipe made up to fit and welded or do turbosmart sell an adapter pipe for it?

https://www.youtube....h?v=-HaFhjDNQb4

Edited by s15rocket, 18 January 2017 - 04:06 PM.


#8 s15rocket

  • Joined:26-November 11
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:180sx type x

Posted 18 January 2017 - 04:12 PM

Hmm this pipe looks a bit a long. But apparently it will fit the plumb back bov above with the v band clamp. Is that correct?


https://www.maperfor...ter-pipe-ap25ts

#9 Varvs

  • Joined:21-December 07
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:97 180sx Type X

Posted 18 January 2017 - 05:39 PM

That pipe would do if you replace the OEM hotpipe (if you still have the OEM hotpipe.)

this is what mine looks like. excuse the Unigroup paintjob on the piping.

Posted Image

#10 200VIA

  • Joined:10-January 15
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:S15

Posted 18 January 2017 - 06:27 PM

View Posts15rocket, on 18 January 2017 - 04:01 PM, said:

View PostVarvs, on 18 January 2017 - 12:48 PM, said:

I have a V band fitting welded to my hot pipe on the underside of it, a turbosmart 38mm universal BOV with the plumb back snout screwed on, and a short length of universal silicone radiator hose that joins it directly to the (GKTech) metal intake pipe.

Previously, I had a side mount with a HKS SSQV fitted to the OEM location. I bought the Plumb-back fitting the for HKS, fitted it, then ran the (same, but longer) hose down the same hole as the cooler piping, and connected it to the same point on the intake.

will take a picture later of current setup if you need it to be clearer.

A few pics would be great! Would love to see what you have done. As this definitely sounds like the best option.

Good news also, I found the stock recirculation valve. Didn't even know it was there! Was hidden underneath and blocked off with a plastic cap just the as the moderator above had mentioned. Was put there by the previous owner.

View Post200VIA, on 18 January 2017 - 02:36 PM, said:

As Varvs said, a hot pipe with V-band welded fitting, plumb back BOV & short hose recirculating back to your intake would be the ideal setup.
Assuming you have a stock intake pipe, or something of the same design, this will make for a clean simple install.
I have a Turbosmart 34mm BOV with V-band clamp for sale if you decide to go in that direction.


Well turbosmart is definitely my bov of choice. What colour is it? Its a plumb back? I'd prefer black but blue would probably be okay as you will barely even be able to see it anyway.

Is this the one you're talking about? Do I have to get a hot pipe made up to fit and welded or do turbosmart sell an adapter pipe for it?

https://www.youtube....h?v=-HaFhjDNQb4

The one I have is a dual port, can be setup for 100% vent, 100% plumb back or 50/50 both.
That pipe is the right design, but it's hard to tell if it would fit without more details.
It shouldn't be hard to find one or have somebody fabricate one for you.
Here is a link to my BOV:
http://www.ebay.com....984.m1555.l2649

#11 s15rocket

  • Joined:26-November 11
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:180sx type x

Posted 18 January 2017 - 08:37 PM

View PostVarvs, on 18 January 2017 - 05:39 PM, said:

That pipe would do if you replace the OEM hotpipe (if you still have the OEM hotpipe.)

this is what mine looks like. excuse the Unigroup paintjob on the piping.




Wow that is pure genius dude. Just put the pipe and hang the bov upside down and run a short little tube to the recirculation vent.. I think I will do something very similar to this. Makes it stealth too.

Edited by s15rocket, 18 January 2017 - 08:54 PM.


#12 s15rocket

  • Joined:26-November 11
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:180sx type x

Posted 18 January 2017 - 08:41 PM

View Post200VIA, on 18 January 2017 - 06:27 PM, said:

View Posts15rocket, on 18 January 2017 - 04:01 PM, said:

View PostVarvs, on 18 January 2017 - 12:48 PM, said:

I have a V band fitting welded to my hot pipe on the underside of it, a turbosmart 38mm universal BOV with the plumb back snout screwed on, and a short length of universal silicone radiator hose that joins it directly to the (GKTech) metal intake pipe.

Previously, I had a side mount with a HKS SSQV fitted to the OEM location. I bought the Plumb-back fitting the for HKS, fitted it, then ran the (same, but longer) hose down the same hole as the cooler piping, and connected it to the same point on the intake.

will take a picture later of current setup if you need it to be clearer.

A few pics would be great! Would love to see what you have done. As this definitely sounds like the best option.

Good news also, I found the stock recirculation valve. Didn't even know it was there! Was hidden underneath and blocked off with a plastic cap just the as the moderator above had mentioned. Was put there by the previous owner.

View Post200VIA, on 18 January 2017 - 02:36 PM, said:

As Varvs said, a hot pipe with V-band welded fitting, plumb back BOV & short hose recirculating back to your intake would be the ideal setup.
Assuming you have a stock intake pipe, or something of the same design, this will make for a clean simple install.
I have a Turbosmart 34mm BOV with V-band clamp for sale if you decide to go in that direction.


Well turbosmart is definitely my bov of choice. What colour is it? Its a plumb back? I'd prefer black but blue would probably be okay as you will barely even be able to see it anyway.

Is this the one you're talking about? Do I have to get a hot pipe made up to fit and welded or do turbosmart sell an adapter pipe for it?

https://www.youtube....h?v=-HaFhjDNQb4

The one I have is a dual port, can be setup for 100% vent, 100% plumb back or 50/50 both.
That pipe is the right design, but it's hard to tell if it would fit without more details.
It shouldn't be hard to find one or have somebody fabricate one for you.
Here is a link to my BOV:
http://www.ebay.com....984.m1555.l2649

Nice.

I was looking at the dual port one and also the cheaper kompact ones.

I think using the oem pipe then having someone weld on the bung (which comes with the bov kit) is the way to go.


Thanks for every help! I wouldnt of worked his out on my own.

Oh one more question:

Real noob question. Where would the vaccum line on the top of the bov go in this set up? Thanks again!

#13 200VIA

  • Joined:10-January 15
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:S15

Posted 18 January 2017 - 08:59 PM

Vacuum line can connect to any boost source from the intake manifold that is after the throttle body.

#14 s15rocket

  • Joined:26-November 11
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:180sx type x

Posted 19 January 2017 - 01:42 AM

View Post200VIA, on 18 January 2017 - 08:59 PM, said:

Vacuum line can connect to any boost source from the intake manifold that is after the throttle body.

What do you mean by connect to any boost source? Aren't the all just like vac lines? I was going to run a line from the bov to the same line that the stock bov used. Can't I just TEE in at any part which is marked in blue here?

http://eurotuned.com...ttach_id=417911

#15 pmod

  • Joined:13-May 10
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:Fruity 180sx

Posted 19 January 2017 - 08:03 AM

View Posts15rocket, on 19 January 2017 - 01:42 AM, said:

View Post200VIA, on 18 January 2017 - 08:59 PM, said:

Vacuum line can connect to any boost source from the intake manifold that is after the throttle body.

What do you mean by connect to any boost source? Aren't the all just like vac lines? I was going to run a line from the bov to the same line that the stock bov used. Can't I just TEE in at any part which is marked in blue here?

http://eurotuned.com...ttach_id=417911

Correct, you can use that line. What he was referring to was any vacuum hose that experiences boost when the throttle is open and the manifold is pressurised, and vacuum when the throttle is closed and the manifold is in a state of vacuum. Any bung that connects directly to the intake plenum will have those characteristics.

#16 pmod

  • Joined:13-May 10
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:Fruity 180sx

Posted 19 January 2017 - 08:04 AM

View Posts15rocket, on 18 January 2017 - 04:12 PM, said:

Hmm this pipe looks a bit a long. But apparently it will fit the plumb back bov above with the v band clamp. Is that correct?


https://www.maperfor...ter-pipe-ap25ts

It fits the bov, but likely will not fit the car, because it is too long as you said.

Quote

Please Note: This item is not vehicle specific. It is compatible with a wide range of applications and is therefore displayed on our site regardless of your vehicle selection. Please review the specifications and verify compatibility prior to placing your order.


#17 Varvs

  • Joined:21-December 07
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:97 180sx Type X

Posted 19 January 2017 - 08:58 AM

cut it to length and get a shop to re do the beads.

#18 pmod

  • Joined:13-May 10
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:Fruity 180sx

Posted 19 January 2017 - 01:13 PM

View PostVarvs, on 19 January 2017 - 08:58 AM, said:

cut it to length and get a shop to re do the beads.

It's an American shop, which is why I didn't mention the cut-and-roll option. The overall cost landed, plus the bead modification, makes it cheaper to just buy the a part the right length.

#19 Dose Pipe Sutututu

  • Joined:19-January 05
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:Boat Sutututuutu

Posted 31 January 2017 - 06:30 AM

or just run the stock BOV with the internal bleed hole blocked up.

#20 Scotties15

  • Joined:08-May 05
  • Location:Australia QLD
  • Car:S15 200sx

Posted 03 February 2017 - 06:30 PM

View PostDose Pipe Sutututu, on 31 January 2017 - 06:30 AM, said:

or just run the stock BOV with the internal bleed hole blocked up.

this. will be good for stock turbo.

#21 s15rocket

  • Joined:26-November 11
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:180sx type x

Posted 14 February 2017 - 12:52 AM

Just an update.

I had fabricate an alloy pipe because my BOV adapter is aluminium and the stock pipe is steel so they couldn't be welded (overlooked that part) . Pipe cost $5 from a aluminium factory. Exhaust place put on a nipple for my boost controller (which im yet to install) and welded on the adapter for my BOV so i can connect it with the v band clamp. Still need to find some rubber hose that is literally shaped like a horse shoe to get it to vent into the stock bov plumb in location which is just beneath the air flow meter.

See pics. Just a test fitting. Going to spray it black soon for stealth.


Posted Image
Posted Image

Edited by s15rocket, 14 February 2017 - 12:56 AM.


#22 pmod

  • Joined:13-May 10
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:Fruity 180sx

Posted 15 February 2017 - 07:43 AM

Did they swage the ends or weld on some blobs to give the hose clamps something to seat against? If you run a plain straight pipe without some sort of barb at the end, the risk of the pipe blowing off is greatly increased (been there, done that lol).

The car will run fine as it is on lower levels of boost, but it's something you really want to sort out for the sake of reliability.

#23 Varvs

  • Joined:21-December 07
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:97 180sx Type X

Posted 15 February 2017 - 11:15 AM

My intake pipes BOV return inlet has no barbs and has never blown off.

#24 s15rocket

  • Joined:26-November 11
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:180sx type x

Posted 15 February 2017 - 09:23 PM

View Postpmod, on 15 February 2017 - 07:43 AM, said:

Did they swage the ends or weld on some blobs to give the hose clamps something to seat against? If you run a plain straight pipe without some sort of barb at the end, the risk of the pipe blowing off is greatly increased (been there, done that lol).

The car will run fine as it is on lower levels of boost, but it's something you really want to sort out for the sake of reliability.


Yeah its got the blobs on it. I had them replicate the same blobs on the stock one.

Installed it all last night and took it out for a drive tonight. Car is running like absolute chit! I don't think my BOV is working. I have one side of the dual port blocked off right now and the plumb part isn't hooked up yet, so I assumed it would work just like atmosphere BOV until I got the pipe work for it, but I can't hear anything. Not even fluttering or venting and I was getting the occasional small backfire.

I tried the set on 10% and the gain on 5% and the car hit 13 psi really easy and I felt the car get good power surge then then instantly it just falls flat like the boost completely falls off down to like 7psi. I don't know what's going on. Could be a boost leak? I might have to take it to someone who knows what they're doing. This is turning into a bit of headache tbh. Thank god I have another car to drive right now.

#25 pmod

  • Joined:13-May 10
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:Fruity 180sx

Posted 16 February 2017 - 07:50 AM

View PostVarvs, on 15 February 2017 - 11:15 AM, said:

My intake pipes BOV return inlet has no barbs and has never blown off.

I was referring to the hotpipe only. The small return pipe should be fine, as you said.

#26 Varvs

  • Joined:21-December 07
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:97 180sx Type X

Posted 16 February 2017 - 08:04 AM

View Posts15rocket, on 15 February 2017 - 09:23 PM, said:

View Postpmod, on 15 February 2017 - 07:43 AM, said:

Did they swage the ends or weld on some blobs to give the hose clamps something to seat against? If you run a plain straight pipe without some sort of barb at the end, the risk of the pipe blowing off is greatly increased (been there, done that lol).

The car will run fine as it is on lower levels of boost, but it's something you really want to sort out for the sake of reliability.


Yeah its got the blobs on it. I had them replicate the same blobs on the stock one.

Installed it all last night and took it out for a drive tonight. Car is running like absolute chit! I don't think my BOV is working. I have one side of the dual port blocked off right now and the plumb part isn't hooked up yet, so I assumed it would work just like atmosphere BOV until I got the pipe work for it, but I can't hear anything. Not even fluttering or venting and I was getting the occasional small backfire.

I tried the set on 10% and the gain on 5% and the car hit 13 psi really easy and I felt the car get good power surge then then instantly it just falls flat like the boost completely falls off down to like 7psi. I don't know what's going on. Could be a boost leak? I might have to take it to someone who knows what they're doing. This is turning into a bit of headache tbh. Thank god I have another car to drive right now.

what boost controller?

normally you set GAIN to 0% and then SET should be done in 10% increments until you get to your desired boost level. then you start ratcheting up the GAIN to improve the response until it spikes and then dial it back slowly.

some controllers also have a START setting where they will not control boost until above that pressure.

#27 200VIA

  • Joined:10-January 15
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:S15

Posted 16 February 2017 - 11:03 AM

View Posts15rocket, on 15 February 2017 - 09:23 PM, said:

View Postpmod, on 15 February 2017 - 07:43 AM, said:

Did they swage the ends or weld on some blobs to give the hose clamps something to seat against? If you run a plain straight pipe without some sort of barb at the end, the risk of the pipe blowing off is greatly increased (been there, done that lol).

The car will run fine as it is on lower levels of boost, but it's something you really want to sort out for the sake of reliability.


Yeah its got the blobs on it. I had them replicate the same blobs on the stock one.

Installed it all last night and took it out for a drive tonight. Car is running like absolute chit! I don't think my BOV is working. I have one side of the dual port blocked off right now and the plumb part isn't hooked up yet, so I assumed it would work just like atmosphere BOV until I got the pipe work for it, but I can't hear anything. Not even fluttering or venting and I was getting the occasional small backfire.

I tried the set on 10% and the gain on 5% and the car hit 13 psi really easy and I felt the car get good power surge then then instantly it just falls flat like the boost completely falls off down to like 7psi. I don't know what's going on. Could be a boost leak? I might have to take it to someone who knows what they're doing. This is turning into a bit of headache tbh. Thank god I have another car to drive right now.

Regarding the BOV, if you have the atmospheric side blocked off, but the plumb back side left open to "vent", this may be causing over-fuelling issues for your AFM & ECU.
The BOV ports are sequential, meaning that in a dual port setup, the plumb back port opens slightly before the venting port to keep some air in the system.
This keeps the ECU happy, preventing issues such as stalling, backfiring, etc. as you described.
In any case, you're currently running 100% atmospheric, which the ECU probably won't like.

Regarding the boost controller (Greddy Profec, yes?), are you running in normal mode or control mode?
What you described could be a few different things...
1. You are hitting your set over-boost limit, causing the EBC to reduce boost.
2. If you're using control mode, if your "start boost" pressure is set too aggressively, your ECU could be detecting knock & going into safe mode.
I had this happen once when initially setting up my Profec.

#28 s15rocket

  • Joined:26-November 11
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:180sx type x

Posted 16 February 2017 - 02:36 PM

View PostVarvs, on 16 February 2017 - 08:04 AM, said:

View Posts15rocket, on 15 February 2017 - 09:23 PM, said:

View Postpmod, on 15 February 2017 - 07:43 AM, said:

Did they swage the ends or weld on some blobs to give the hose clamps something to seat against? If you run a plain straight pipe without some sort of barb at the end, the risk of the pipe blowing off is greatly increased (been there, done that lol).

The car will run fine as it is on lower levels of boost, but it's something you really want to sort out for the sake of reliability.


Yeah its got the blobs on it. I had them replicate the same blobs on the stock one.

Installed it all last night and took it out for a drive tonight. Car is running like absolute chit! I don't think my BOV is working. I have one side of the dual port blocked off right now and the plumb part isn't hooked up yet, so I assumed it would work just like atmosphere BOV until I got the pipe work for it, but I can't hear anything. Not even fluttering or venting and I was getting the occasional small backfire.

I tried the set on 10% and the gain on 5% and the car hit 13 psi really easy and I felt the car get good power surge then then instantly it just falls flat like the boost completely falls off down to like 7psi. I don't know what's going on. Could be a boost leak? I might have to take it to someone who knows what they're doing. This is turning into a bit of headache tbh. Thank god I have another car to drive right now.

what boost controller?

normally you set GAIN to 0% and then SET should be done in 10% increments until you get to your desired boost level. then you start ratcheting up the GAIN to improve the response until it spikes and then dial it back slowly.

some controllers also have a START setting where they will not control boost until above that pressure.


Profec OLED. What are your settings?

I tried a few different things. Now I have everything sitting on zero. Car seems to run fine as it did before, but seems slightly more sluggish for some reason. Can't really explain how or why. Maybe its just my imagination. I think I will just wait until I get it tuned and let the tuner deal with the settings. There is no reason for boost to just drop off so suddenly like that. Its like you get this sudden surge of power then the car gets a massive loss of power and the car becomes very sluggish. I think I have a boost leak or my BOV is not set up right.

View Post200VIA, on 16 February 2017 - 11:03 AM, said:

View Posts15rocket, on 15 February 2017 - 09:23 PM, said:

View Postpmod, on 15 February 2017 - 07:43 AM, said:

Did they swage the ends or weld on some blobs to give the hose clamps something to seat against? If you run a plain straight pipe without some sort of barb at the end, the risk of the pipe blowing off is greatly increased (been there, done that lol).

The car will run fine as it is on lower levels of boost, but it's something you really want to sort out for the sake of reliability.


Yeah its got the blobs on it. I had them replicate the same blobs on the stock one.

Installed it all last night and took it out for a drive tonight. Car is running like absolute chit! I don't think my BOV is working. I have one side of the dual port blocked off right now and the plumb part isn't hooked up yet, so I assumed it would work just like atmosphere BOV until I got the pipe work for it, but I can't hear anything. Not even fluttering or venting and I was getting the occasional small backfire.

I tried the set on 10% and the gain on 5% and the car hit 13 psi really easy and I felt the car get good power surge then then instantly it just falls flat like the boost completely falls off down to like 7psi. I don't know what's going on. Could be a boost leak? I might have to take it to someone who knows what they're doing. This is turning into a bit of headache tbh. Thank god I have another car to drive right now.

Regarding the BOV, if you have the atmospheric side blocked off, but the plumb back side left open to "vent", this may be causing over-fuelling issues for your AFM & ECU.
The BOV ports are sequential, meaning that in a dual port setup, the plumb back port opens slightly before the venting port to keep some air in the system.
This keeps the ECU happy, preventing issues such as stalling, backfiring, etc. as you described.
In any case, you're currently running 100% atmospheric, which the ECU probably won't like.

Regarding the boost controller (Greddy Profec, yes?), are you running in normal mode or control mode?
What you described could be a few different things...
1. You are hitting your set over-boost limit, causing the EBC to reduce boost.
2. If you're using control mode, if your "start boost" pressure is set too aggressively, your ECU could be detecting knock & going into safe mode.
I had this happen once when initially setting up my Profec.

One side of the BOV is blocked off (opposite side to as in the pic above). The plumbed side is just currently open with no pipe work on it. Aren't both side of the BOV the same? So you can block one side put the trumpet on the other and vice versa depending on your set up? Or is one side of the BOV specifically for the plumb back? I can't tell which side is which and I got them mixed up now.

Your diagnosis could be on the money although i set the limiter to 13psi and peak boost was only ever 12psi then it would quickly drop down to like 5psi and stay there. Weird.


EDIT: I did have it set to CONTROL for some reason. I changed it back to NORMAL tonight and its seem to have fixed the problem. For some weird reason my little line graph isn't working on my profec :'( the bar and digital modes work fine. I wonder what is causing that?

Edited by s15rocket, 17 February 2017 - 12:48 AM.


#29 Varvs

  • Joined:21-December 07
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:97 180sx Type X

Posted 16 February 2017 - 02:51 PM

depends what your actuator pressure is too.

i run a GTX2863 with a 14PSI actuator. my settings for 20PSI look like this:

Set: 42%
Start: 16PSI
gain: 75%
warning: 21PSI
limiter: 10%

im still fine tuning it as my boost is dropping off mid-range. i wouldnt use these settings on yours either, as a different turbo will behave different.

you can switch the Control setting to Normal mode which will leave the solenoid disabled until START setting is reached. the other Control setting means it will attempt to control the boost during the whole duration, which I assume means that


you should be able to clearly see on the display what the boost level is doing - if its hitting the desired level then dropping off a cliff you probably dont have anywhere near enough gain.

#30 s15rocket

  • Joined:26-November 11
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:180sx type x

Posted 17 February 2017 - 12:43 AM

View PostVarvs, on 16 February 2017 - 02:51 PM, said:

depends what your actuator pressure is too.

i run a GTX2863 with a 14PSI actuator. my settings for 20PSI look like this:

Set: 42%
Start: 16PSI
gain: 75%
warning: 21PSI
limiter: 10%

im still fine tuning it as my boost is dropping off mid-range. i wouldnt use these settings on yours either, as a different turbo will behave different.

you can switch the Control setting to Normal mode which will leave the solenoid disabled until START setting is reached. the other Control setting means it will attempt to control the boost during the whole duration, which I assume means that


you should be able to clearly see on the display what the boost level is doing - if its hitting the desired level then dropping off a cliff you probably dont have anywhere near enough gain.


Okay so tonight I played around with the Profec settings again and I set the start back to NORMAL. For some reason I changed it to CONTROL (i think that's what its called). Anyway the car seems to be holding boost now. SET is 52% and GAIN is 6%. Everything else is 0. Whenever I touch anything else it seems to want to over boost really easily. Anyway It hits 12psi on this and seems to hold boost nicely, but its not very responsive its more of a gradual wind up. Its got no bite whatsoever but you wouldn't expect much bite or ramp up with 12psi. I think the car just needs tuned. Running a t28 on it compared to the stock t25 is probably a factor also. I'll book it in for a Nistune with e85 setup soon. Just need to come up with 2 grand LOL.





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