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Member Since 13 May 2010
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In Topic: Boost issues: will an Electronic Boost Controller fix it?

30 January 2018 - 03:17 PM

You're over-thinking this. First test the system in an 'uncontrolled' state, see what it does, then decide on your controller.

Disconnect your boost controller and cap all the lines, then disconnect the line going to the wastegate and plug it all up. Get some wire or a ziptie and strap the wastegate lever arm shut, so you're boosting with NO wastegate. Go for a some hot laps up and down your street keeping a close eye on your boost gauge, you don't want to over-boost after all, and see how it performs.

If you aren't hitting 13 psi in that configuration or the pressure builds slowly, then no EBC or reed valve will solve the problem. The best scenario an EBC can achieve is to have the wastegate flap shut 100% until you hit the target pressure, for maximum response, and you're replicating that action for free.

If the boost is weak/lazy with the wastegate out of the picture, the issue is likely going to be related to an intake leak, in which case do a pressure test. The alternative is that the root cause lies in the tune and any components relating to ignition, in which case hook up a Consult cable and Nissan DataScan1, then check out the sensor output for inspiration.

In Topic: Dash/Tale light Issue

19 January 2018 - 10:00 AM

Nice! Good to hear it was an easy solution. :)

In Topic: Sr20 Cylinder Head Question

19 January 2018 - 09:57 AM

I have a couple of red-top heads spare, whether they have all been dismantled I don't recall, but I can check it out and let you know. Shipping to SA would be a bitch though.

If at all possible, you want a head with matching cam caps. Everything else you can adjust quite easily, whether it be rockers, shims or valve guides, as it's just a question of measuring with a dial gauge and swapping in replacement shims from your parts box or TAARKS. Truth be told, you shouldn't rely on old shims being to spec, given the engine is 20 years old, and reusing shims by replacing them in their original location should be reserved for a quick-and-dirty engine rebuild. I only changed the valve guides and valve stem seals on my head due to time constraints, but at some point I'm sure I'll sort them out and hopefully smooth the valve train out.

The cam caps however need to match the head, or you might have to have a line hone done, and how viable that is depends on wear.

In Topic: New tailshaft. 1 piece or 2 piece. S14

11 January 2018 - 09:26 AM

There's been plenty of discussion on this topic across all the car forums, so I'll just link you a couple of threads.


In Topic: Loki's zil80

11 January 2018 - 07:11 AM

Very nice! You always build interesting cars, or iterations of the same car, as in this case. Is the plan to run it with no rear bar, or is that part pending installation?

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