Warning: Illegal string offset 'html' in /home/nissansi/public_html/forums/cache/skin_cache/cacheid_1/skin_topic.php on line 907
S15 Spec R - Hardtuned.net

Jump to content


S15 Spec R Silvia

66 replies to this topic

#1 Kirksil13

  • Joined:29-December 09
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:S15

Posted 18 August 2014 - 12:16 PM

ADM delivered 2001 S15 Spec R

Engine
Blacktop SR20DET with vct
IHI vn14 turbo (same as pe1420)
Turbosmart IWG75 actuator
Larger r32 radiator & new oem water pump
HDI hybrid gt front mount intercooler
Greddy style intercooler piping
Intercooler water sprayer with micro mist jets
3in stainless steel bellmouth dump pipe
Xforce turbo back exhaust with venom 100cpsi cat & 3in hotdog mid muffler
Circuit sports 7 layer exhaust manifold gasket
Gktech 3in alloy intake pipe with 3in snout
Mamba braided turbo lines
JapanDyno R35 afm with 3in alloy housing and plug
3A Racing pod filter
Just Jap SRI alloy cold air box
G Plus oil cooler kit with built in thermostat
Stock bov bleeder hole blocked (now holds 20psi+)
Splitfire coilpacks
Nismo 740cc injectors
Walbro gs342 255lph fuel pump hardwired
Continental ethanol content sensor
Nistune ecu with flex board and launch control setup
Nissan quest 125amp alternator upgrade with Aeroflow turnbuckle bracket
Gates 3 piece engine belt set
Light weight 3 piece pulley set
Nismo engine mounts
Gktech eccentric throttle wheel
Front bar ducted cold air feed
Fender ducted cold air feed
233rwkw @ 20psi on e75

Driveline
Exedy heavy duty organic clutch kit with single mass flywheel & nissan genuine flywheel bolts
Nismo gearbox mount

Suspension, wheels and brakes
Tein monoflex coilovers
Front strut brace
MountCo front rubber swaybar bushes
Nolthane rear swaybar bushes
Superpro steering rack bushes
KKR adjustable castor rods
ZSS rear camber arms (hardened rubber ends)
Adjustable toe rods
Cusco castor tension brace
N1 Suspension upgraded tie rods with 6mm inbuilt lock spacers and roll center corrected ends
Transteering ball joints front & rear
Whiteline rear lca inner bushes
Rays gram light wheels 18x8.5 front & 18x9.5 rear
225/40/18 nitto invo fronts
255/35/18 momo outrun m3 rears
RDA slotted rotors front & rear
Lucas TRW brake pads front & rear

Interior
Red genuine recaro sr3 drivers bucket seat on bride rail
Factory optioned red leather interior
Innovate ECB1 gauge with afr/boost/fuel temp & ethanol % display
Racetech digital 2in1 oil temp/oil pressure gauge
Apexi avcr electronic boost controller with high boost switch
Digital temperature controller for intake air temps
Nismo duracon gearknob
Sony 7" touch screen dvd
Alpine type S front speakers
Kenwood rear speakers

Exterior
Spec R side skirts
Spec R rear pods
JDM rear bar without reflectors
Spoilerless boot lid
Electric sunroof
Nismo wind visors
BA falcon underbody air diversion tray

Attached Thumbnails

  • Attached Image: ad_0_1396065761202.jpg
  • Attached Image: ad_2_1396065761208.jpg
  • Attached Image: 20140814_172958-4128x2322.jpg
  • Attached Image: 20140814_172936-4128x2322.jpg
  • Attached Image: 20140814_172716-4128x2322.jpg
  • Attached Image: 20140814_172835-4128x2322.jpg
  • Attached Image: 20140814_173033-4128x2322.jpg
  • Attached Image: 20140814_173053-4128x2322.jpg

Edited by Kirksil13, 03 August 2016 - 10:23 AM.


#2 Kirksil13

  • Joined:29-December 09
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:S15

Posted 22 August 2014 - 04:15 PM

Gotta love the T28 turbo super responsive
1.16 bar (16.8psi) @ 2889rpm this morning.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Attached Image: 20140805_035815-4128x2322.jpg


#3 Kirksil13

  • Joined:29-December 09
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:S15

Posted 08 September 2014 - 09:32 AM

Sourced an ihi vn14 turbo, same as the standard turbo that comes on the nismo 270R. They're supposed to be good for about 300-320rwhp with quicker spool than a t28. Thinking poncams & z32 afm along with the walbro pump and 1000cc injectors I got with the car purchase and maybe e85 just to spice things up a little.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Attached Image: 2014-09-08 13.12.35-1059x1597.png

Edited by Kirksil13, 17 October 2014 - 05:26 PM.


#4 Kirksil13

  • Joined:29-December 09
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:S15

Posted 12 September 2014 - 12:56 PM

Gktech intake pipe with 3inch snout to go with the new turbo.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Attached Image: 20140908_210720.jpg


#5 zefside_s15

  • Joined:12-January 14
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:S15 Silvia

Posted 12 September 2014 - 02:04 PM

Does Gktech still make them?

#6 Kirksil13

  • Joined:29-December 09
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:S15

Posted 12 September 2014 - 07:57 PM

Dont think so this one is a used item

#7 Kirksil13

  • Joined:29-December 09
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:S15

Posted 13 September 2014 - 08:49 AM

Just got a compression test done today. Results: cylinders 1 & 2- 170psi
cylinders 3 & 4- 160psi
Very happy to have a strong and healthy SR at 130,000km. Plugs are due for an upgrade to platinums though as standard plugs are starting to foul coming up to 5,000km use.

#8 Kirksil13

  • Joined:29-December 09
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:S15

Posted 21 September 2014 - 07:48 AM

Fitted the alloy intake and snout to the t28 today. Ive noticed boost response is a little quicker now with 3" piping and a better air path.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Attached Image: 20140921_075640-4128x2322.jpg


#9 Kirksil13

  • Joined:29-December 09
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:S15

Posted 27 September 2014 - 09:59 AM

Cleaned and ready to roll out for the day.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Attached Image: 20140927_100044-4128x2322.jpg


#10 Kirksil13

  • Joined:29-December 09
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:S15

Posted 10 October 2014 - 07:46 PM

Modified the stock bov to hold more boost by plugging the bleeder hole inside the two halves. Seems to pull alot harder through the rev range now. Also swapped my small k&n cone filter for a larger 3A Racing pod, induction noise become louder as a result.

Edited by Kirksil13, 17 October 2014 - 05:39 PM.


#11 Kirksil13

  • Joined:29-December 09
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:S15

Posted 01 November 2014 - 08:54 PM

Now with summer upon us and the weather heating up, i have started to notice high knock readings on the power fc hand controller when boosting off the lights after sitting idle. So i ordered an apexi style pod filter enclosure to help combat the heat soak, but after installation discovered the box wasnt air tight and still didnt eliminate my problem. My next idea is to seal the box completely, wrap the intercooler piping & intake pipe in some heat reflective tape and possibly setup a bilge fan inside the enclosure that feeds cold air from behind the headlight.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Attached Image: 20141101_182314-4128x2322.jpg

Edited by Kirksil13, 01 November 2014 - 08:59 PM.


#12 Kirksil13

  • Joined:29-December 09
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:S15

Posted 09 November 2014 - 07:46 AM

Got around to sealing the pod filter enclosure yesterday, i used some square rubber roof flashing from bunnings to create the seal around the afm and box. Then i cut a plastic chopping board into shape using a cardboard template i made earlier and closed the sides and top around the factory snorkel and painted it black to match. Pretty happy with how it turned out.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Attached Image: 20141108_092455-4128x2322.jpg
  • Attached Image: 20141108_102008-4128x2322.jpg


#13 Tim Sil80

  • Joined:12-February 14
  • Location:Australia QLD
  • Car:Sileighty

Posted 22 November 2014 - 04:13 PM

Weird mod man.

#14 jiri styles

  • Joined:31-August 08
  • Car:92 s13 silvia

Posted 23 November 2014 - 12:30 AM

wot

#15 Kirksil13

  • Joined:29-December 09
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:S15

Posted 13 December 2014 - 08:42 PM

Installed walbro 255lph fuel pump

#16 Kirksil13

  • Joined:29-December 09
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:S15

Posted 06 March 2015 - 10:31 PM

After owning an sr20de s13 while on my P's and becoming a regular at qld raceway and archerfield drift nights, i decided it was time to head out to eastern creek last weekend and have some fun with the s15. Let me tell you the difference in power delivery was awesome, going from a non turbo to now having 250hp at the wheels felt amazing to slide on. The transitions were smoother, I could hold alot more angle mid corner, power over was now possible and i barely had to bang the clutch as much as i did before. Overall the s15 is a much more solid, balanced and capable car compared to my old s13, whilst still being a comfortable, easy daily to drive during the week. I am more than happy with my purchase and will continue to drive, build and keep having fun with the s15 into the future.

Also here's a pic of my old s13

Attached Thumbnails

  • Attached Image: IMG_101730187962353.jpeg

Edited by Kirksil13, 21 April 2015 - 12:19 PM.


#17 Shadow_Matrix

  • Joined:31-May 13
  • Location:Australia ACT
  • Car:Astra :P

Posted 06 March 2015 - 11:19 PM

good to hear man, keep us posted :)

#18 Kirksil13

  • Joined:29-December 09
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:S15

Posted 12 April 2015 - 10:59 AM

Purchased an R35 afm with 76mm alloy pipe and harness from JapanDyno online. Was about half the price of a z32 unit and should be better to tune with also.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Attached Image: SC20150317-202956-1.jpg
  • Attached Image: SC20150412-105251-1.jpg

Edited by Kirksil13, 12 April 2015 - 11:01 AM.


#19 Kirksil13

  • Joined:29-December 09
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:S15

Posted 28 April 2015 - 08:52 AM

Recently bought a new nissan quest 125amp alternator from the usa along with an aeroflow turnbuckle bracket to suit. Apart from drilling the bottom alternator hole out to 10mm and fitting the new bracket its a straight bolt up with all plugs and cables the same. After the installation I've already noticed its helped stop fluctuating revs at idle and on slow turns at full lock, increased spark to coilpacks while on boost, headlights are now brighter, windows wind up faster and voltage now sits at a constant 14.2volts after startup. I highly recommend this mod for anyone looking to upgrade their alternator or having voltage drop issues.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Attached Image: null_zpsebe685aa.jpeg

Edited by Kirksil13, 28 April 2015 - 11:20 AM.


#20 Kirksil13

  • Joined:29-December 09
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:S15

Posted 05 May 2015 - 11:43 AM

More parts for my turbo swap come in the mail recently. Received braided water and oil lines, stainless steel turbo gaskets, circuit sports 7 layer exhaust manifold gasket and 1 bar garrett wastegate actuator.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Attached Image: 2015-05-05 15.43.35.jpg

Edited by Kirksil13, 05 May 2015 - 07:48 PM.


#21 Kirksil13

  • Joined:29-December 09
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:S15

Posted 08 June 2015 - 06:20 AM

Fitted nismo gearbox mount to help aid 1st to 2nd gear crunch and missed shifts at high revs. Also fitted a high boost switch next to my avcr controller.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Attached Image: 2015-06-08 07.08.59.jpg
  • Attached Image: 2015-06-08 07.12.06.jpg

Edited by Kirksil13, 08 June 2015 - 06:32 AM.


#22 Kirksil13

  • Joined:29-December 09
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:S15

Posted 11 June 2015 - 05:56 PM

For anyone that has a notchy or crunching gearbox I highly recommend you try nulon g70 gearbox additive. For the last 6 months my gearbox has been really notchy when cold and I've been getting a crunch when shifting at high revs from 1st to 2nd gear. This afternoon I added one 125ml tube of g70 to the box through the gearstick hole and it has 100% fixed the notchy shifting and crunching. This is definitely a product worth every cent at only $15 from supercheap you can't go wrong.

#23 Kirksil13

  • Joined:29-December 09
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:S15

Posted 02 July 2015 - 08:25 AM

More suspension goodies arrived today. After I noticed the s15 had a couple of busted castor rod bushes, I decided to replace the whole arm with these quality adjustable KKR items. I've previously used a pair of these before in my s13 build and was really happy with how solid they are and also like the bonus of having dust boot protectors over the rose joints.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Attached Image: 2015-07-02 09.13.15.jpg

Edited by Kirksil13, 07 September 2015 - 08:23 AM.


#24 pmod

  • Joined:13-May 10
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:Fruity 180sx

Posted 02 July 2015 - 12:02 PM

Out of interest, did you swap the SR20 Alternator pully onto the Quest Alternator? I bought an aftermarket Quest Alt from the States ages ago (fitting it has been low on the to-do list) and the pulley is not the same as the SR20 unit with regard to ribs. I recall the oem Quest pulleys being different and people had clearance problems installing the SR20 ones.

Also, what were the specs of your turnbuckle? I can always measure the gap if needed, it would just make ordering parts faster.

#25 Kirksil13

  • Joined:29-December 09
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:S15

Posted 02 July 2015 - 03:03 PM

The quest alternator I bought already had the 5 rib pulley on it which was a direct fit with the original belts. Pretty sure it is a series 2 nissan quest 99-02 model. It's the 125amp version not the 110amp. All I had to do was drill the lower bolt hole out to 10mm and everything fit like standard. The turnbuckle is an aero flow 90mm Adjustable piece that I also bought off ebay for $50.

#26 Pimp My Ride

  • Joined:06-May 11
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:JDM S15 Spec R

Posted 16 July 2015 - 07:40 AM

View PostKirksil13, on 02 July 2015 - 03:03 PM, said:

The quest alternator I bought already had the 5 rib pulley on it which was a direct fit with the original belts. Pretty sure it is a series 2 nissan quest 99-02 model. It's the 125amp version not the 110amp. All I had to do was drill the lower bolt hole out to 10mm and everything fit like standard. The turnbuckle is an aero flow 90mm Adjustable piece that I also bought off ebay for $50.

Hey mate currently looking doing this conversion, can you share some details regarding the alternator belt used?

#27 pmod

  • Joined:13-May 10
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:Fruity 180sx

Posted 16 July 2015 - 09:51 AM

Cheers for your input KirkSil! Just finished installing my aftermarket one and you're right, the 125amp alternator has the exact same pulley/rib configuration as the S13 unit.

I did things a little differently though, as I compared the two alternators and the pulley position isn't actually the same between them. I ended up grinding my lower flanges to position the pulley the same as the stock one, shimmed them using washers to fit the S13 iron bracket, then I made a misjudgement. I foolishly ground the upper mount and drilled out the hole to suit the S13 adjustment bracket and although my machining was perfect... the hole didn't line up, and to make matters worse, the body of the alternator fouled the curved adjustment bracket. Fail. I then purchased a turnbuckle like yours and found that with the different alternator positioning, one of the turnbuckle lock nuts fouled the alternator. A few more washers to shim the rose joint to sit further behind the alternator and I was done.

View PostPimp My Ride, on 16 July 2015 - 07:40 AM, said:

Hey mate currently looking doing this conversion, can you share some details regarding the alternator belt used?

You use the standard factory S13 alternator belt. I'll throw up a guide when I have a chance, as there is some conflicting information on the net regarding this, hence I didn't realise that the pulley on the 125amp unit [I already owned] wasn't different to the S13 one.

If you want a simple installation, then do exactly the same as Kirk. Get [ONLY] a 125amp Nissan Quest alternator, a 90mm turnbuckle, some M8x35mm bolts, an oem S13 belt, drill the lower holes out to 10mm, drill the rear positive S13 harness eyelet out by 2mm, then it all bolts together like factory. If however you're concerned about the belt wearing and coming off due to the alternator pulley being 7mm too far forward, then make the mods that I did to the lower bracket, shim the difference using washers, shim the adjustment rose joint and call it a day.

#28 Pimp My Ride

  • Joined:06-May 11
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:JDM S15 Spec R

Posted 16 July 2015 - 01:54 PM

View Postpmod, on 16 July 2015 - 09:51 AM, said:

Cheers for your input KirkSil! Just finished installing my aftermarket one and you're right, the 125amp alternator has the exact same pulley/rib configuration as the S13 unit.

I did things a little differently though, as I compared the two alternators and the pulley position isn't actually the same between them. I ended up grinding my lower flanges to position the pulley the same as the stock one, shimmed them using washers to fit the S13 iron bracket, then I made a misjudgement. I foolishly ground the upper mount and drilled out the hole to suit the S13 adjustment bracket and although my machining was perfect... the hole didn't line up, and to make matters worse, the body of the alternator fouled the curved adjustment bracket. Fail. I then purchased a turnbuckle like yours and found that with the different alternator positioning, one of the turnbuckle lock nuts fouled the alternator. A few more washers to shim the rose joint to sit further behind the alternator and I was done.

View PostPimp My Ride, on 16 July 2015 - 07:40 AM, said:

Hey mate currently looking doing this conversion, can you share some details regarding the alternator belt used?

You use the standard factory S13 alternator belt. I'll throw up a guide when I have a chance, as there is some conflicting information on the net regarding this, hence I didn't realise that the pulley on the 125amp unit [I already owned] wasn't different to the S13 one.

If you want a simple installation, then do exactly the same as Kirk. Get [ONLY] a 125amp Nissan Quest alternator, a 90mm turnbuckle, some M8x35mm bolts, an oem S13 belt, drill the lower holes out to 10mm, drill the rear positive S13 harness eyelet out by 2mm, then it all bolts together like factory. If however you're concerned about the belt wearing and coming off due to the alternator pulley being 7mm too far forward, then make the mods that I did to the lower bracket, shim the difference using washers, shim the adjustment rose joint and call it a day.

Good info thanks for the quick simple write up!

"drill the rear positive S13 harness eyelet out by 2mm"

^^Same for s15 and still using s13 or s15 alt belt?

Edited by Pimp My Ride, 16 July 2015 - 01:57 PM.


#29 pmod

  • Joined:13-May 10
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:Fruity 180sx

Posted 16 July 2015 - 03:20 PM

View PostPimp My Ride, on 16 July 2015 - 01:54 PM, said:

Good info thanks for the quick simple write up!

"drill the rear positive S13 harness eyelet out by 2mm"

^^Same for s15 and still using s13 or s15 alt belt?

No probs. Yeah, it should all be the same. The S15 alternator chassis is effectively the same as the S13 one, and the eyelet terminal on the harness will be the same size or bigger than the S13 one, so that should be easy to deal with.

#30 Tim Sil80

  • Joined:12-February 14
  • Location:Australia QLD
  • Car:Sileighty

Posted 16 July 2015 - 03:34 PM

Good to hear the nulon gearbox treatment works wonders. I'm going to put a tube in with fresh redline mt90 before jamboree, hopefully makes my box a bit nicer to smash through the gears.





1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users

Common Links

  • About Us
  • Privacy Policy
  • User Agreement
  • Help & Support Forums
  • Advertise
  •  

    By your continued use of this site, you agree to follow all Rules & Guidelines and abide by the User Agreement outlined in our Terms & Conditions.

    Hardtuned Network is hosted by Sanity Technology

    Design, Site Management & Hotness provided by Loz.

    Big thanks to all our members and volunteers for making this network what it is today!