Jump to content

B00sted180

Platinum Member
  • Content count

    998
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    43

B00sted180 last won the day on January 21

B00sted180 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1,119 Excellent

About B00sted180

  • Rank
    Kermit
  • Birthday 06/17/1992

General Info

  • Location
    Australia SA
  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Fast Cars, Hot Chicks, Loud Music
  • Car Type
    Nissan Silvia
  • Car Model
    180SX

Recent Profile Visitors

59,898 profile views
  1. SR20det grinding noise and no boost

    I've got a horrible grinding noise but mine is apparently in the exhaust, I've got a relatively new turbo so hope its not that lol. I'd love to fix the problem but haven't honestly bothered trying to fix it yet.
  2. Hi Everyone, I'm in need of a new head to replace my current one but the one I looked at has been dismantled and everything thrown into a container. Looking at all the parts it seems it's missing a cam cap and some shims etc. My question is, is it worth getting this head or move on and find another one. I'm wanting to simply get another head and transplant everything from my current head into the new one. Before anyone asks why, my current head has been machined way too much and has increased the compression too much and preventing me to achieve what I want from the engine. Cheers
  3. Running rich after installing EBC

    Just a follow up on this problem, I ended up taking it to the mechanic and since I had done nothing to my car since the last tune other then installing the AVCR they reinstalled the last tune. It fixed nothing and there was way too much fuel being put into the engine. I was even asked if I had installed bigger injectors since the last tune, it even baffled the mechanics. They ended up doing a new tune. I'm glad I took it back to them. When they looked at my previous notes the engine had 200psi compression on all four cylinders and it was worked out to between 10:1/11:1 compression ratio. With the compression ratio so high 23psi of boost was still being squeezed into the engine. With this new tune they weren't able to go beyond 14psi without some major knocking and when I got the car back it's been suggested to not push it too hard for too long especially under load and ensure to keep the revs high. It still baffels me on what happened for it to all of a sudden change and have problems. It must have something with the installation of the AVCR but not sure what it could be.
  4. Dash/Tale light Issue

    Since my first post I've learned its also the parkers which aren't working along with the dash and rear tail lights. I've finally fixed the problem. I checked all the fuses more than once and even replaced the parker fuse just in case it was mistaken as ok. I unsecured the kick panel fuse box and inspected it to see if there was anything visually wrong with the wires. I removed and reinstalled all relays in all three fuse boxes. I removed all rear globes and front parker and indicator globes and cleaned all the contact points. Visually inspected all wires with the rear lights, parkers/indicators and all the under dash wires. I even removed the indicator stalk and inspected it. They were all the main things I found on the net which solved other peoples problem with the same issue. Only other thing I read which solved the problem for other people was replacing the indicator stalk. I grabbed another stalk, installed it and problem fixed. Sorry for my rambling but hoping that this might help others fix the same problem if it happens to happen to their car. Thanks Pmod for you're help, I was stressing out hoping it wasn't internal wire breakage withing the fuse box wires but thought I'd try all these other fixes first before going into the more complex fixes
  5. S.A Events Page

    Jafs Last Cruise 26th December at 1900hrs Westfield Tea Tree Plaza https://www.facebook.com/events/147855735841655/?ti=cl Hope everyone has their cars ready, always a big turn out and a good night.
  6. Dash/Tale light Issue

    Hi Everyone, Having this problem in my 180sx where the dash lights and rear tail lights have become temperamental and don't turn on. Was wondering if anyone else has had this issue or if it might be an easy fix. Cheers
  7. How would you go about getting the same details on the RPS13 chassis'?
  8. Silvia S13: R33 GTS-T Brake Upgrade

    They should bolt straight on without an adaptor.
  9. My BOV is crazy loud

    My car with the standard air box and plastic induction pipe it 100% quiet. Once I have the metal intake and pod its really loud. Those two things on their own make a huge difference.
  10. Silvia S13: R33 GTS-T Brake Upgrade

    From what Pmod said I did the following with my conversion. I got conversion lines from GKtech and they had plastic clips and have snapped. Didn't think about ziptieing them but will now. I got a HFM BM57 master cylinder and works great. Heard a lot of people have had problems with them leaking but mine has been fine so far. I made my own handbrake adaptor plate. Google image 'Eagle Adaptor' and you'll find measurements. Replacing the plastic brake pedal bump stop is worth it, I currently have a $1 coin blue tacked on. Surprisingly hasn't failed me yet. I'm using my standard booster and got a BMC stopper which made a big difference. It can be a fairly straight forward conversion. I didn't find it too hard other then accidentally using GTR rear hubs when I thought they were GTST and had trouble getting a hard brake pedal but replacing the standard BMC with the BM57 fixed it.
  11. s13 head package options in sydney

    I got the following machine work done on my S13 head. - Chemical Cleaned - Pressure Tested - Crack Tested - Ported - Polished - Manifolds Matched - Removed Quench Pads - Decked - Enlarged Valve Ports Only thing I can suggest is to be careful on how much you have the head faced/decked. I've had too much taken off and currently running at 200psi compression on all cylinders. Worked out to about 10.1:1 ratio. Was running 23psi in it (crazy fun to drive), recently had it retuned to 14psi (not so fun anymore) and was told it's a merical I didn't blow the engine up. It also proved difficult to tune and make any decent power out of it on 98ron without it knocking. Now looking at getting another standard head and have the same work done to it except keep the compression as low as possible so I can run more boost in it again. Just thought I'd share my story so your mindful and don't make the same mistake.
  12. That sucks, I missed it
  13. Vacuum Line sr20det?

    I've tried to simplify my engine bay by minimising vacuum lines on my 180 and have removed the EGR, BOV, Carbon Canister and have the Boost Controller connected to the turbo using a GKTech outlet snout. Only problem I've encounter is that when you get your car defected, vehicle inspection will apparently look for the carbon canister. I personally haven't has any problem with fuel smell. As Pmod said your easiest solution would be replace the 3 way connector at 'B' and replace it for a 2 way connector. That'll eliminate the EGR and not alter anything else.
  14. Vacuum Line sr20det?

    Hopefully I've read the diagram correctly. The S14/S15 engine looks to be slightly different to the S13 so hopefully the info I've provided is correct. 'C' isn't required but is connect to your fuel tank. The tank requires to vent to prevent pressure building up in it. The carbon canister filters the fuel tank vapors. Without it your fuel tank will just vent to atmosphere. Nothing wrong with that other then the chance of smell of fuel. If you remove 'B' you could connect 'D' to the throttle body.
×