stockblues15

From pages 112 and 113 of the EC section of the ADM S15 manual: Pin 1 (F101 connector) is 12V switched via ECM relay (wire colour B/R). Pin 2 (F101 connector) is coil #4 trigger (wire colour R/L). Pin 3 (F101 connector) is coil #3 trigger (wire colour R/G). Pin 4 (F101 connector) doesn't appear to be used. Pin 5 (F101 connector) is coil #2 trigger (wire colour R/Y). Pin 6 (F101 connector) is coil #1 trigger (wire colour R/W). Ground lead is bolted to the back of the head (wire colour B). Note: Wire loop colour B/R is for the 12V power to coil #1, and R/W is its trigger.

Yes I believe it is painted. A guy on here years ago did a repaint (pmod). I think the problem is prep'ing the surface. The plastic is patterned and any sanding will change the look of the finish. I think pmod redid all parts and filled then sanded to a smooth finish.

Normally tyre placard is inside drivers door sill, near the latch. Get one from here. http://rawsparts.com.au/product.php?id_product=308 Also if you can print onto waterproof paper you could make up one yourself. You could even add additional tyre sizes, if the sizes are within reason (i.e. same rolling circumference as stock).

It's the same shell. The manufacture plate on the chassis says what options it was manufactured as. So if you re-shell into a non-aero then people who know what to check will value it less. However it will look exactly the same when the body dress up bits are transferred over.

Welcome. It's been a bit quiet on the forums for a while, but I am sure some are still lurking.

Is it a real MAF or an eBay one? eBay Z32 mafs have a history of causing problems. Also coil packs. They can go bad where they partly run enough to make you think they are ok.

Not 100% sure. But given the basic engine is the same, there is a high chance of them being the same.

Sorry, long gone to metal recycling. They were not perforated or slotted, just stock.

Not sure if anyone else has noticed much more fan noise after installing a 52mm alloy radiator. I never used to notice any fan noise with the stock radiator. I think possibly the viscous clutch is getting to much heat as it is now physically closer to the radiator code, making it operate harder earlier. This happens even on cool days after 20 mins or so driving. Engine is basically stock with Nismo thermostat and alloy china radiator (52mm triple core). Engine temps are fine (probably cooler than they should be for daily driving) and system has been bled. I just want to know if this is a normal thing with an alloy rad replacement that I haven't seen mentioned before.

Very interesting. My car didn't come with fog lights, audio or keyless entry (but has all). Everything else matches.

Front rotors are 29.6mm (min 28, new 30) Rear are 8.1mm (min 7, new 9) Probably not going to ship these due to the weight. Can pickup in Epping or Bella Vista, or could be persuaded to drop off around or between said locations. Make an offer, 6-pack of beer or equivalent cash will be looked at favourably.

Thanks guys. Good to know they work well with a bit of abuse.

My 25 yo trolley jack has finally given up and leaked out its fluid. I am thinking about winning our and getting a light aluminium one to replace it. Do people rate the Arcan 1.8T from Costco? Any good alternatives?

A Walbro 255 can flow 177-215 l/h (12v to 13.5v) at 70 psi (25 psi boost) from typical graphs I have seen. Which is enough to max out 740cc side feed injectors (177 l/h) at up to 25psi boost. Just make sure they get enough volts. However they are not E85 proof so expect a shortened life.

Sounds like a bad earth to your fuel pump. 6.3 volts isn't good (unless you measured the fuel gauge signal by mistake). Bad earth's to the fuel pump can be an issue. Edit: The earth to the pump goes through a relay that is controlled by the ECU. Maybe you have a bad relay or bad wiring.