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About OZ_HCR32

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  1. Adjustable front Lower Control Arms

    Ok, so wasnt a big deal to grab some machien shims and throw then in a lathe to get the right ID etc But....sadly this brings me on to the next problem. The shank is different in taper and diameter to what I need for my R32 GTSt hubs http://www.rhdjapan....ont-nissan.html They are claiming the same part number but appears as though they use different tapers so fark knows why they sell what appear to be suited to R32 owners S13 ball joints. Can anyone confirm the differences between ball joints between various S-model platforms and R32s???
  2. Adjustable front Lower Control Arms

    Eek. Been looking at a few pics on line and it seems you are right the tolerance/gap seems pretty common. Will grab some 41mm ID machine washes and pack it all the same
  3. Adjustable front Lower Control Arms

    Hope someone here can help me I bought these Nagisa Auto RCA from Japan for my R32 GTSt, Just fitted them and the circlip doesnt bottom out and locate the ball joint on the arm like it should Its an R32 GTSt LCA 100%, I am wondering if they sent me a rear or a front R33 one or something that allows for a different height between the flange of the arm and the circlip groove? Thoughts...people know the difference between all the relative front/rear and model ball joints?
  4. Price : $1,100 Condition : Used Comes with 10cm Greddy 3 bolt turbine housing. Only done dyno work so like new (Pretty sure you can get whatever sized T3 housing off Kando/ebay for $150 if you want to run T3 rather than Greddy 3 bolt type housing) Great turbo for an RB25 or RB26 or RB30 running single. Will make 20-30rwkws more than a T67-25G with approx 200rpm increase in lag (approximations based on various results seen in friends and other cars) I had kept this turbo around with a view of trialling it against other turbos but after recent round of testing figure my new engine isnt probably strong enough to handle the power this will make. Comes with elbow for welding to outlet. Price: $1100 + delivery or about $20 to metro major cities Also a bit disappointed to be selling these but reality is they will sit around for another 6 months before I get around to trying to source a rim suitably big and able to fit into my cars guards (lowly GTSt ) They have done 2 sessions at last years Superlap and estimated to have done about 6-8 laps. Currently in my mates garage in Sydney. Asking $1350ono + delivery. New quoted ~ $630 a tyre http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...ttach_id=422934 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...ttach_id=422935 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...ttach_id=422936 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...ttach_id=422937 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...ttach_id=422938 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...ttach_id=422939
  5. Big Brake Kits?

    Just for those discussing wanting more braking power/upgrades etc. Some basics that are always worthwhile keeping in mind when doing a brake upgrade. Why do you need a brake upgrade? Generally since the Nissan 4 pots are pretty decent things to start with if you NEED an upgrade over these then generally it has little to do with stopping the car quicker . Suspension and tyres do that. Rather its about stopping the car more consistently and doing it without fade. So its a thermal management thing So you need to identify why your current brakes are limiting your track performance. So the first crossroad to consider is when experiencing a drop in braking performance is the pedal firm but car not stopping properly (pad fade) or is the pedal going long and spongy? (Boiling fluid) If its the former then upgrade to a better pad, one that is in the temperature range you are operating in. If you have are running a good performance pad like Endless CCX you are unlikely to get pad fade. What you will/may experience is a spongy pedal which means you have boiled fluid. Assuming you are running a top shelf brake fluid like Castrol SRF then generally you now know you have reached the limit of your current braking system. So remember its a temperature thing. The two easiest ways to increase the thermal capacity of the system is to run a larger rotor or a caliper with more pad area. These are thermal management issues. If you can lock your brakes and you are comfortable with the brake feel then you dont need to change the braking torque. Rather all you are looking to do is increase thermal capacity of the system So whilst upping rotor size and pad area help with thermal management , you need to consider there are three things that influence braking torque. One is rotor diameter, another is pad friction co-efficient, and lastly piston area. Read that again and remember those three things, So when you upgrade brakes the first thing you go is do to a racier high temp pad. By doing so you have just increase the braking torque available at that axle. So if you are leaving everything the same then it pays to remember this as it is wise to upgrade front and rear with the same pad, or at least if you only do fronts be mindful that you have just increased the front bias. The rear rotors do fine with good pads as they get less airflow and run smaller diam and thickness rotor so get up to operating temps similar to the fronts. So getting back to needing better thermal management, you want a bigger rotor. So we go a bigger front rotor for better heat dissipation, and run that with a racier pad, we have just done 2 of the 3 things that increase braking torque. So lets go back a second...the pretty safe assumption is you are only getting brake fade from the front axle, so the trick is to get more thermal capacity into your braking system with affecting the brake bias, or the ratio of braking torque front to rear. So we have gone bigger rotor and better pad at the front. In order to keep bias sane there is now a strong argument that your upgraded caliper needs smaller pistons to keep bias in check. So considering that cars with track suspension control weight transfer better then std cars you can in reality get away with more rear bias then std. For me though I like a bit more front bias as it means with trail braking etc i am never going to have the rear etc come around on me. So I mention all that because if you are going bigger rotor, better pads and then go to a caliper like the EVO which is dramatically bigger then anything Nissan well...I have never driven a car but I suspect you will need a much bigger master cylinder to try and tone down the bite of the brakes and stop locking and a bias valve to try and keep the rears in the game. Consider R33 GTR Brembos run 44 and 38mm caliper pistons and the EVO Brembo runs 46 & 40mm pistons, which incidentally are even bigger then the Brembo F50 which are 44mm and 40mm pistons
  6. What Seat/Harness Setup Do YOU use?

    So , some more info regarding what I have been rambling on about in earlier posts. I swapped my Sparco seats pictured earlier with a friend who was running Racetechs. Fortunately we both find each other's seats more comfortable so worked out well. After swapping he needed me to navigate in a rally with him, so first time out in the Sparcos we binned it. So even though I was concerned about the position of the harness relative to my shoulders...all worked out ok. Something that was pointed out to me was that the Sparco seat was HANS compliant and it seems that on HANS compliant seats they put the harness cutout lower so that the HANS device is located correctly. Which when looking at the above pics seems to match as they are not wearing HANS devices. So perhaps another thing to consider, is that HANS seats may be a tad different with harness hole locations and should best be used with a HANS device...something I had never considered
  7. What Seat/Harness Setup Do YOU use?

    LOL, I am a scratched record. Same question, your bum and shoulders fit in the seat...does the harness cdrop over your shoulders or rise up then down over your shoulders ?
  8. What Seat/Harness Setup Do YOU use?

    Neat interior! Cant see any seat belts or harnesses though. You really need to sit in the seat, throw the harness over your shoulder and take a pic to post. Its one of my pet things to nag on about because below is a pic if my back, If I am in even a minor accident that sees the belts tension up over myshoulder and pushing me down into a seat....i could be in real trouble so need to be extra sure the belt location on my shoulder is correct. Some people are happy with close enough and they may be right....but you can see why its something I look closely at In these pics you can see how the harnesses come through the seat cutout and then come down over the shoulder. I woudl say 3 out of 5 people I see at the track have them wrong. The CAMs ruling on belt angles is well known, but the correct sizing of the seat is always neglected, only thinking about ass fitting in the seat
  9. What Seat/Harness Setup Do YOU use?

    Care to post a pic of you sitting in it showing your shoulder placement relative to the harness opening?
  10. What Seat/Harness Setup Do YOU use?

    Real comfy too. But I think as a guide if you are over 5'10" then you need to double check all the Sparco seats. Some people are taller, some shorter in the measurement between hip and shoulder. But having sat in several Sparco and Cobra seats they seem built for jockies. Makes me wonder about the Bride seats. To date Recaro, Velo and Racetech seem to fit me better for height
  11. What Seat/Harness Setup Do YOU use?

    Yeh, I am pissed off with myself for being stooopid. My current Bride rail is shit and because I am a fat fark the seat/rail combo flexes way too much on the track. So decided that whilst I loved my old Momo seats it was time for new seats. So paid a fortune for these after sitting in them to confirm they were comfortable...but I didnt check the harness height. They are way too low for me so stuck trying to sell these (it appears I can only move them if I am willing to take a loss) in order to afford some Racetechs, which are both comfortable and the correct size
  12. What Seat/Harness Setup Do YOU use?

    I would go as far as saying you should not run harnesses in any factory seat! They are simply not designed for the loads that a driver in an accident with harnesses puts on the seat back. You could / will (?) end up with more inmjuries then with std seat belt. If you are going to go semi slicks then my rule of thumb is if you are spending 2k on tyres that dont last long but give you performance then its time to spend 2k on a seat and harness/install. When grabbing seats dont just look at the widths. Look closely at the height of the shoulder harness penetration relative to your shoulder. The harness should rest on the seat cutout and shoulder. Your shoulder should not obscure the harness cutout....if it does the seatback is too low for you. I am only 5'10" and many seats do not fit me if I try to run harnesses....not unless you are running a very high harness bar which isnt really practical in cars with basic cages or just harness bars
  13. Time Attack Leader Board VIC

    Anything under 1:40s at Winton is good going. Any vids? I am curious how the SR20 with the 20G goes grunting out of some of the slower corners. I know on the RB20 I am cursing i dont have another 300rpm on board at corner exit
  14. Time Attack Leader Board VIC

    Yeh the rail is about to get replaced...cant come soon enough. The lil TD06 does a pretty good job. It was a lot more torquey/responsive when i had the std inlet manifold on it. Lost a fir bit of mid with the plazmaman and only way to get it back is E85 or go back to std which is dollars/time/PIA to do ...and I cant drift to save my life or afford tyres so
  15. Time Attack Leader Board VIC

    Bit of an update from me. No changes to the car except a wheel alignment and some well used AO50s off a friends EVO that won early modern at Targa Tas OZ_HRR32 Car Make and Model: 1992 R32 GTSt Circuit Name: Winton Lap time: 1:36.92sec Timing method: http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/results.cgi?29/10/2011.WIN.S5 Vid: Circuit Name: Phillip Island Lap time: 1:49.3ec Timing method: on board video Vid: Modifications Engine: stock RB20DET, with TD06-20G, FMIC, exhaust and Pfc Power: 245kw Suspension: Bilstein Tyres: AO50 255/40/17 Brakes: Custome DIY 343 Harrop rotors and 4 pot Stoptech calipers Other: dodgey Bride seat rail and leaking gearbox