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About Dannyboi43

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  • Birthday 11/29/1983

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  • Car Type
    Nissan Silvia
  • Car Model
    Nissan 180
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  1. Clealry your ingorant of things? or like to make up scenarios? or both? i suspect a bit of both. Tested another kinugawa acutator the distributor sent same issue. Would still like to see your dyno manifold pressure sheet as i said above, so i can look at updating the blog with the evo version (no spikes or bad boost curves as you clam there are none) Vs the issue with the silvia one Vs the Garret actuator (no spikes, very smooth). Anyway Garret actuator is on & 308KW @ wheels, 15 psi. 98 octane. Needs more work, But we'll leave that for the next owner to sort. *Edit 16psi 1.1 bar not 15psi. well near enough. Sr20det, blacktop 180sx, 3 inch exhaust (steam pipe headers, cat, resonator, muffler), walbro fuel pump, 800cc side feed injectors, kinugawa td06sl2-20g (not the 3 inch cover version the normal bolt on one) INT gate, Milled wastegate port on EX housing, Garret actuator, 268/272 cams, adjustable cam gears, 2 1/2 inch to intercooler, 2 3/4 to throttle bodie. factory throttlebody which is 60mm on that model engine, GFB plumb back BOV, HKS pod filter, 300zx MAF, adjustable FPR, custom intake pipe - s13.4 hybyrd rocker cover with breather plumbed back into intake, Just your everyday tap boost controller, Factory ECU rechipped, 98 fuel, twin core radiator, Greddy plenium (replica), mild porting to head, 1.5mm headgasket, rocker arm stoppers, racing thermostat, soild engine & gearbox mounts, spitfire coil packs, platnium spark plugs. Other than that its just rebuilt with new Nissan parts & gaskets. Balanced & forged bottom end. 0.5 mill bigger bore for the new pistons, Heavy duty valve springs & titanium caps, ARP bolts, race bearing e.t.c Lightweight billet flywheel, H/D clutch, 2 way lsd. (light weight flywheel & the plumb back rocker cover is probably the biggest reason why more power visible at wheels than our other car + not having 200,000kms on the clock goes along way, should also add we have cooler temps here than Australia) You sir are an idiot & a fool & i suspect a liar on the actuator on the evo story since clearly you havnt had it tested, i suggest you get it tested, if it is spiking like the ones we TESTED (sitting in a seat at home & saying it works fine is not testing it!) your not doing your engine anygood & you will want to get the ECU re-tuned to suit after you fix it. Welcome to the block list, where all idiots are stored.
  2. 100% sure on every account, we not only tryed different actuators but different boost controllers. Cars been on the dyno testing the Crap out of it for 2 days to find & Sort the probliem (3 days if you include the other tunes). The rubber bits inside the Kinugawa & the "rod" are the main design faults causing the issue. But for more info & better explaination than this you would need to contact NZEFI &/or GAD Tuning on the matter. Also like to add Are you sure theres no probliems with your brothers one? i'd Very much like to see a dyno sheets.
  3. My Sr20 with Kinugawa t06-sl2 is at the tuners & its a bit more than that on 98oct. at the wheels atm. so its doable. Word of advice the INT Gated Kinugawa turbo Actuators (in fact many billet "adjustable sping" actuators), They are crap causes to many boost spike issues & bad curve issues, once swapped for HKS or Garret actuator (both tested) probliem instantly goes away. OR EXT wastegate. (Yes i did have the Ex housing milled out before hand as recommended prior in this tread.)
  4. S13 silvia bonnet alignment issue

    ... Read it wrong. You can use a hammer & dolly on the bonnet or remove your guards & realign them with your bonnet on.
  5. mines been wrapped 5 years. this year with the rebuild had to re-wrap it. Its fine. (stainless steel)
  6. 180sx ecu

    yip thats where it is, passenger side kick pannel in front of the door.
  7. 2 way in the hills

    LOL Anyway i suppose i should explain better so the less fortunate can understand to which the reply was: As you can note & read if you can read it tell you how to adjust that model there which i thought would be understandable clearly not.... & it answers your question/questioning of another members comment. Then i tell you how to adjust 1 of my LSD's which is also adjustable to prove a point, altho i never menchion model do i? ( your assumptions is the mother of all f*&% up's) & no its not the kaaz or the nissan VLSD, or the VLSD shimmed one. Anyway if u want to know more i'll send u a link.
  8. 2 way in the hills

    http://www.cusco.co....l&product_id=29 Pull out a half shaft slam a socket in there, turn. 1.5 way to 2way.
  9. 2 way in the hills

    The difference is in the way its locked, welded diff will bump, skip & hop on every corners since its always locked also major tyre wear. Where as the 2 way will only do that when its new or on really tight turns as it has some give. welded diff is ok on a track but dangerous on the roads (unless your used to it), 2way is more street friendly believe it or not.
  10. 2 way in the hills

    Agree'd, its what i run has taken months to get it to work the way i want. Tried many oils, dissaembly, ressembly, different length half shafts e.t.c. It says not to run synthetic oil in it but i've found running Redline Synthetic diff oil helped, it was broken in properly with Kaaz oil 80w/140w with a little "Limited Slip Friction Modifier" made it a little more predictable for street. (it didnt help any with the "chatter" noises). shockproof red was nice on street & track after that. but if its to much just go back to the 80w/140w with or without LSD friction modifier as it already has some in it.
  11. 2 way in the hills

    I Prefer the standard diff in the hills honestly, 2 ways not bad but for my driving & speed it feels alot safer & was faster with the stock VLSD 180sx diff. (this is my experiance with my 180sx SR20det stock diff mild tune vs matts 180sx SR20det 1.5way diff mild tune + some, i could keep up with him leading, almost overtook. when he was following he couldnt keep up). https://maps.google....=en&sa=N&tab=wl Runs were south & east to west. Havn't been up since the earthquakes tho so unsure how a decent modifyed 180sx with 2way handles. Prob wont as i'll end up taking it to the track. + the hills & roads up there are undriveable to many idiots who cant drive (*cough police) & other drivers who think 70~100kms means 20kms. But thats for grip driving, if it was sideways fun driving 2way or 1.5way. he def had more fun & won in the burnouts & drifting.
  12. car breaking down

    Seems like a similar probliem i once had, i assume its CA18DET?? anyway it was coil packs/ingitor. But yours sounds a bit different. I wouldnt be suprised if yours is fueling related. have you cheaked the volts to the pump? Did you re-wire your old one in or try the whole unit from a mate? Have you cheaked for a fuel leak near the tank? with the Bosch 040 pump as it'll have higher pressure which will allow for fuel to escape easier. Anyway good luck.
  13. On some makes it can Sorta to long to explain & doesnt help here... they self adjust with handbrake use & need to be hand set e.t.c. Hmm werid. Something is telling me i'm missing something so obvious.....its been a long day, computer, toyota 4k, ca18det, sr20det, skids, cruise, explaination of proper turbo install method... The handbrake cable clip the one with the spring, move it around engage & unengage the handbrake with the piston removed. i really need to see it in person but chances are your probliems to do with that. If im right you should see whats needs to be done, if not best bet take it to a mechanic to cheak it out.
  14. yeah that bit stays there second from left: the piece inside the piston when removed from the piston should be able to be screwed over the bolt inside the caliper by hand. ~ if you want to test it, not needed tho. Sorry about confusing you with the wording, inside my head it sounded right......
  15. It wiggles because its not adjusted.. just means you need to rip up the hand break a few times, when its in the caliper you obviously need the tool you have. **EDIT: just to clarafy that bit i had there before: the piece inside the piston when removed from the piston should be able to be screwed over the bolt inside the caliper by hand. Anyway without being there to cheak it over, i'd say nothing looks wrong, drop some break fluid into the bottom of the caliper use about a cap full or more, put some over the seal & piston with your finger ~use a glove or something (its going to be messy from here) then put the piston back in with the tool