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shobotan

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About shobotan

  • Rank
    Standard Bell End

General Info

  • Location
    Australia NSW
  • Gender
    Male
  • Car Type
    Nissan Silvia
  • Car Model
    RPS13
  1. the Black Engine Bay Masters!

    Nice fitment with the Z32 afm on the factory airbox. Is the egr working? The Z32 AFM is a real tight fit with the factory airbox. No, the EGR (most of it) is just there for appearance sake, it is not connected. What sort of intercooler are you running? what sort of power are you making? Have you had trouble with IAT temps being high with that setup? I'm looking into doing something similar. I'm currently running a cooling pro just jap ARC copy return flow using the stock pipes - I want to avoid having to go front mount or engine bay mount with custom pipes etc but still want to pull reliable 250rwkw or so. Thanks I'm using an ARC sidemount at the moment, and along with the factory airbox the tuner advised that there are slight disadvantages in running this set up if purely shooting for power figures. This set up nets an easy, reliable 190kW rwkw which is more than enough for what I need. You would be looking at a larger turbo charger to net 250rwkW. Only really have temp issues on warmer days on track where the sessions (not drifting) can run up to 20 minutes, by which time the tyres are about due for a break anyway. By the next session everything is back to normal. The set up I use is mainly to keep the car registerable in NSW and so I can return it to stock fairly easily and quickly as overall it's in pretty good condition and saleable. I would consider a turnflow arrangement in future if I find the current power delivery lacking.
  2. the Black Engine Bay Masters!

    Nice fitment with the Z32 afm on the factory airbox. Is the egr working? The Z32 AFM is a real tight fit with the factory airbox. No, the EGR (most of it) is just there for appearance sake, it is not connected.
  3. the Black Engine Bay Masters!

    Running a GT2860RS & CES dump pipe, everything else is in plain sight if you know what you're looking at.
  4. To program the factory keyless entry remote for S13 Silvia &180SX Before you commence programming make sure you have all key fobs you want to program with you in the car. Be aware that any working fobs will be cleared once the car is in programming mode and will need to be reprogrammed along with any additional fobs. Note that S13 Silvia & 180SX do not offer cues such as flashing lights or door locking/unlocking when entering programming mode, contrary to instructions around for newer vehicles. Sit in the driver’s seat and close all doors. Lock all the doors using the driver’s side power lock/unlock switch. Getting the car in to “Programming Mode”. To do this, insert the ignition key into the ignition cylinder and remove it fully from the ignition six times within 10 seconds. If you do it too quickly the system does not recognise it, try for around 1 input per second. After removing the key from the ignition on the sixth time, re insert it after a delay of 2 seconds and turn the key to the “ACC” position (not “ON” – do not start the car) Programming the key. Within 5 seconds, push any button only once on the key fob. The driver’s door will unlock. Note, if you push the button more than once, the procedure will not work. Now remove the key from the ignition cylinder, open the driver’s door and the task is complete and programming mode exited. If you are programming additional remotes, including your original, do not open the driver’s door to finish the sequence. Instead, relock all doors using the driver’s side power lock/unlock switch and within 5 seconds, push any button on the next remote. The driver’s door will now unlock. Repeat this step for each remote. Once complete, remove key from the ignition, open the driver’s door and the task is complete and programming mode exited.
  5. Yeah my range is/was no better, the newer fob is probably 2 metres but hardly a revolution. Anyway, I had another go at programming the two fobs (original and new) and I got it to work.The instructions floating around on the 'net seem to be similar for most Nissans. The difference I found with my car is that it does not give any cue that the car is in programming mode. I guess the newer cars will flash hazards or unlock the doors to give you the cue. When I tried this initially it went into to programming mode and effectively cleared the original fob because I didn't complete the process. So you've got to program all fobs you want to use at the same time, or one after another within a certain time frame. If anyone's interested I can write up instructions specific for s13s.
  6. Hi All, I've a '97 180 with the factory keyless entry which has stopped working, I'm looking for a bit of advice on what's gone wrong. I've read quite a few threads on here but most relate to the link between the two doors, not much info on the fob or this keyless system. At the time it stopped working I was in the process of trying to program a new key fob, as far as I know I never actually got the car in to programming mode. I've changed the battery in the original fob. Both doors still unlock and lock using the driver's side latch and the key in the door lock, and I can hear a relay activating each time the locking/unlocking occurs. I don't hear this relay when I use the fob like before. The last few weeks the passenger door has been locking without operating the fob or the latch. Any ideas on how this system works, is there a receiver for the fob signal somewhere in the car? thanks
  7. Mishimoto Performance Aluminium Radiator to suit an Nissan S13 chassis vehicle fitted with an SR20DET engine and manual transmission.(Part # MMRAD-S13-89SR). I painted the top tank for an OEM look, the remainder is as it came from the manufacturer. The radiator has not been fitted to a vehicle nor has it ever been filled with a fluid of any sort and is effectively unused. Includes radiator cap. $200.00 Local pick up only, Located Epping NSW PM if interested
  8. sr20 cast / ebay sumps

    ^Thanks for the tip. I was about to try one of these, but now I'll pass.
  9. GOODBYE Just Car Insurance...

    I swapped from Shannon's to NRMA vintage two weeks ago. My premium went from $790 to $291 per year for very similar conditions and cover. NRMA Vintage permits up to 9000ks per year, use of no more than 2 days a week (how they monitor this I have no idea) and you can't use it for work. You can still choose your own repairer. I have never had any issues when making a claim with either NRMA or Shannons, Those savings will end up paying for the highway robbery that is the CTP greenslip.
  10. I didn't realise sunroofs were rare in a type X. When I was looking for mine it was hard to find one without a sunroof.
  11. Let's Talk Brake Pads!

    I've used the QFMs on track for club supersprints so maybe 8-10 minutes a session at SMSP on a relatively stock 180. What I've noticed is that on track they wear fairly quickly when compared to my current pads (Project Mu Club Racers). In the last 2 years I've witnessed two front sets of a1rms of fellow club members fail when they were just over half worn where the pad material disintegrated. They were working fine up to this point and seem to be OK when there's plenty of pad left. IMHO the QFMs are a good value street pad but I'd be careful when on track if you really like to stand on the brakes or the pad material is getting to half or less.
  12. Random jdm goodness

    Nothing outstanding - A photo of a Japanese guy and his kid, tennis ball, plastic JDM coke bottle filled with (probably) water. All in where the jack is fitted. Got my flare though.
  13. Just wondering if the plastic trim covers fitted over the seat rail bolts at the rear of the front seats (the bolts that fit the rail to the body) are interchangeable between S13/S14? I've tried to get covers for S13/180 with no luck but I suspect S14 covers will fit which I can probably get new. First world problem I know but these are the only pieces missing from my 180. Anyone???
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