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About crazyracer

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  • Birthday 01/01/1970

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    Australia VIC
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    Don't cheap out on flywheel bolts. I've seen one come loose and fly apart on the main straight at Sandown. Ripped holes through the bonnet of the car and rained chunks of flywheel down on the roof of the pit garages. The marshals where picking up fist size chunks off the grass verge where the crews hang out the pit boards. Lucky no one was killed. If you can't afford the $60 for ARPs hold off on the conversion until you can.
  2. The benefit you get from using the S14/15 rear sub-frame is slightly wider track and improved (reduced) anti-squat characteristics. You need to use solid offset sub-frame mounts which GK and others make and you'd want to retain all of the S14/15 arms etc or use after market adjustable ones to suit S14/15. You'd also need to change the back cover plate on your diff. If instead you use Nolathane sub-frame mounting bushes with the S13 sub-frame, they allow you to tune the anti squat to some extent by changing the overall angle of the sub-frame with shims. The install guide describes how to do it http://www.nolathane.com.au/install_guides/50-9154.pdf
  3. I had something like this after doing a gearbox conversion. The whole car would vibrate when I backed off. Ended up being the brand new tailshaft I just had made up was badly out of balance. I decided the place that made it had no idea and took it to another tailshaft place who balanced it properly and the problem disappeared.
  4. Tow car thread

    I used to tow the race car around with a 6 cylinder AU Falcon wagon. Only had the standard duty (1600kg) tow bar which was probably cutting it a bit fine, but its what it came with. Pretty good go, Never a problem with the transmission and a heap of room in the back for throwing spares, wheels, tools etc (especially with the rear seat down). They're pretty cheap now too Would imagine a BA/BF would be even better.
  5. Time Attack Leader Board VIC

    Thought I'd put up some times for the old car before the build on the new one (S13) gets underway. They go back a few years, been out of it a while Date: 20/07/2003 ns nickname: CrazyRacer Car Make and Model: Datsun 1600 Circuit Name: Sandown Lap time: 1:23.52 Timing method: Dorian Date: 07/09/2003 Circuit Name: Philip Island Lap time: 1:52.46 Timing method: Dorian Modifications Engine: Toyota 3SGE - stock internals, quad throttle bodies, Motec M4 Power: 130 rwkw Suspension: Koni shocks, nolathane and rose jointed suspension arms, Whiteline adj sway bars Tyres: Dunlop Formula R slicks Brakes: Front - Wilwood Superlite calipers, Mercedes rotors. Rear: Volvo 2 spot calipers, SAAB rotor. Car weight: Full weight (900kg - with driver) Aero: Alfa FG Front spoiler, rear wing. Other: Stripped interior, full weld in cage, fibreglass panels, perspex windows. Can't find any Winton or Calder times. Used to be on RaceTime but that seems to have gone.
  6. fuel cells

    I'll have to see if I took any pics of the fuel tank setup as I sold the car last year.
  7. fuel cells

    Try www.americanautos.com.au, they seem to have RCI fuel cells pretty cheap. Most of these are made for drag cars. This is why the fuel pickup is usually at the back. The foam is more to prevent the passage of fire through the tank in the case of an accident than to prevent fuel surge. It does slow down the fuel getting away from the pickup, but in a sustained corner (or drift) you still risk running the pickup dry. If you're going EFI you'll still need to add a surge tank setup with these tanks. The foam is good for most regular fuels, but not methanol has someone has already mentioned. I've heard of it breaking down in the tank after a few years, but I had it in my race car for about 5 or 6 years and no problems. As an alternative to all of this, in my Datto 1600 I had a surge well welded onto the bottom of the standard tank and poking down into the spare wheel well. All it was, was a capped 5 inch long, 3 inch diameter tube welded into a hole in the bottom of the tank, with a couple of bosses for some suitably large screw in fuel fittings welded into the tube. Just make sure whoever does the welding knows what they are doing as exploding fuel tanks are very bad for the health.
  8. which cams for a ca

    If you want something a bit more than standard cams, talk to one of the cam grinders. They will weld up and regrind your old cams to whatever profile you want for a fraction of the cost of buying name brand Japanses ones. They can usually offer good advice on what to go for depending on you application and level of modifications. Cam grinders that I can think of are Wade Cams and Clive Cams in Melbourne and Tighe Cams in Brissy. There are plenty of others though in all states.
  9. Modding a CA18 det, help?

    For after market ECUs in increasing order of expense and goodness... Wolf, Autronic, Motec. All Australian made and supported. Theres plent of others around too, but I don't have any experience with them.
  10. CA18DET Secondary Butterflies

    No, thats kind of what I was thinking. This will be a dedicated track car, so the whole street driven thing doesn't worry me. But seeing as power will be restricted I really need to maximise the midrange to give me the best possible punch out of corners. I would think that at some point, the butterflies will become a restriction to top end power, I was just trying to figure out whether they will be the limiting factor or the 36mm restrictor before the turbo. What sort of power are people making on the stock manifold with the butterflies left in place?
  11. Diff Ratios

    Info I have says CA18DE Manual & Auto 4.375 CA18DET Manual & Auto 4.363 SR20DE Manual 4.083 SR20DE Auto 3.916 SR20DET Manual 4.083 SR20DET Auto 3.916 This info came off some dodgy web site. I haven't pulled any apart or counted them to verify any of it. Strikes me as odd that the CA18DE & DET would have ratios so close but different, so I would bet that they are actually the same. From R180 long nose diffs I have dismantled the ratios Nissan typically use are 3.900, 4.111 & 4.375
  12. CA18DET Secondary Butterflies

    Yep, I'd be looking to take out butterflies and shaft and plugging up the holes where the shaft came out. But if it only starts to make a difference after 220rwkw, I probably won't bother. I'm planning to run a class where I have to use a 36mm restrictor before the turbo, so I'm unlikely to make much more than 200rwkw. I'll just have to play with the Motec on the dyno to get it to open them are the right RPM for maxiumum benefit in the mid-range.

    Did the Google thing on 6Boost manifolds and it looks like Horsepower in a box are an agent for them. They look good (although not shiny), but not cheap at around $1k for a 4 cylinder. But then the good stuff never is cheap. Check out the link... http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/category15_1.htm
  14. what gear box is this?

    Looks the same as a S1 Bluebird gearbox I had, but if it bolts up to a CA it will be Bluebird S3 (CA20). They're not all that strong. I had it behind a NA L20B (race motor though) and it started to become dodgy after a couple of meetings (and I'm reasonably easy on the gearbox). Probably worth $250 - $300 if you want to buy one from a wrecker, but $50 - $100 if you want to sell it privately.
  15. I know its a crime against humanity, but I have to run a 36mm restrictor before the turbo inlet for the class of racing (Improved Production) I'm intending to do in my CA powered Silvia. Does anyone have any experience in making one and can offer any tips on the restrictor design or setup of the engine when using one.