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Everything posted by Rhino-ACT

  1. Weird brand of rod ends seems good but has anyone used it?

    Roadsafe ones are on ebay or kudos motorsport. I also just use them, they're a cheap brand but seem sturdy and do the job.They don't really advertise the brand of them in most of the places they sell them as they're basically a generic brand.
  2. Hey guys, I'm looking at getting sway bars for my 180sx. I'll get the r32 GTR rear bar for the cheapness and thickness and fitment, but for the front, I had been looking at the whiteline 3 way blade adjustable one but then I found this HardRace one for much cheaper including the links. I'd have to spend extra on buying new links for the whiteline because they are a weird figure 8 style one with dodgy cheap brackets that are apparently rubbish. Here's the link for the one I found from Hardrace: http://www.hard-race.com.au/index.ph...product_id=181 It looks much nicer than the whiteline in blue haha. Has anybody had any experience with this brand of sway bars? I can hardly find anything on the internet and it seems like they mostly do bushings and links and only relatively recently expanded into sway bars and only for 2 or 3 cars. It doesn't seem like something that would be difficult to make correctly, but I guess I worry that the fitment isn't good or the quality isn't there or something. They're all solid steel and probably the same grade of steel, right? And would weigh the same? Any advice would be appreciated.
  3. HardRace Sway bars? Any good?

    Thanks for that tip AE86557, they're really sounding like the best value around for decent sway bars with links. I'm sold on them. One week until pay day when I can afford to buy them haha.
  4. HardRace Sway bars? Any good?

    Where can you find out what it was deregistered at?

    I sent you some pics via MMS this arvo. I don't think I've seen that battery tray bracket. I just googled it now and found this on post 28 on this page: http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=436685 Is that what you're talking about? That does sound cool and option1 garage sold it at least back then and they're pretty cheap and ship stuff. Apparently came with an ADR engineer letter of compliance. Pretty cool. My intercooler was installed by the previous owner who got it engineered in Canberra. I'd consider just risking it though if those brackets are too expensive. You rarely get your car inspected in Canberra. Unless you go to NSW a lot.
  6. HardRace Sway bars? Any good?

    Thanks. I contacted HardRace themselves and they said they are solid, hot formed, and heat treated. So that sounds pretty good indeed. The whiteline one is 27mm, so not that different, and i'd definitely not use the hardest of the 3 settings. Maybe the middle one or the lowest one if it's too understeery. I was under the impression that the GTR rear one is quite hard because it is 24mm (compared to 20 or 22 for the whiteline and only 17 stock) and although it's not solid, I've heard that it's 95% as strong as a solid one, so that makes it about the same as the whiteline for stiffness. The fronts are $100 cheaper than the whitelines though. They include the bushes and some proper links, unlike the whiteline links which I'd have to replace. The whiteline proper links are $180 alone by themselves, but I found you can use mazda 3 ones for only $50 or something. But still, it's a very big price difference for something that's sounding to be just as good and with better links. I'm fairly convinced to try HardRace now. Worst case, at least I get to give feedback to the rest of you if they're rubbish or not haha. I'll just have to wait until next thursday to buy them now. The quality of their other products seems quite decent. I'll definitely try the middle setting though on the front.
  7. HardRace Sway bars? Any good?

    china ARB can be very shit, the ends are welded on rather than flattened / pressed and drilled, and the bars can be hollow and/or made from inferior metals. often stock is better than a POS china ARB It's pretty hard to find second hand whiteline bars though. Most people keep them on. But I'd agree that I'd be happy to use a used one, which is why I bought a used rear r32 GTR one. Hmm, yeah I'm a little worried that the welds aren't up to par and it's hollow or made from inferior metals or shaped to be weak in a certain area or not fitting well. They look pretty decent in the photos though, and they have an office in sydney and might be an Aussie company? Not sure. Could still just be rebranded china spec I guess. Thanks for that. I do find some good reviews of some of their stuff and I haven't really heard anything bad about them, so their quality generally seems to be good for parts and that's making me think they might be good. I emailed them and justjap, who also sell their stuff, and asked if the bars are hollow or solid. Great, so they seem sturdy and the welds look good and it doesn't look like they're flat and weak in certain areas? Do they sound hollow or solid? Let me know how they go please. Shame about the china ones not fitting. They just don't line up at all? Do the hardrace ones look much better?

    Yeah should do. There wouldn't be much if any difference with the layout of the intake stuff for s14, I think the main fitment issue is the body of the car, fitting the fmic and routing pipes where they fit. I'll go take some photos to send you.

    I have a brand new FMIC to intake pipe in polished aluminium. I have the other side as well, but it was bent and then fixed and doesn't look as perfect from the bottom but not really noticable.The kit it came from (Blitz SE) uses the stock black piping just out of the turbo. Just the small straight part. And then a joiner joins it up to the aftermarket part which goes down to the FMIC. Interested?
  10. Bonnet not Opening

    If anyone is looking at this and wondering what to do, you have to get under the car and take the 3 bolts off the latch so you can open the bonnet with the latch still attached. You may be able to just drive up to a gutter and fit under that way unless your car is really low, but it is a bit easier being able to extend your arms a bit more if you jack it up a bit. There's 3 size 12 bolts with a LOT of thread and there's not much room under there so I had to use a socket wrench for one and a ratcheting spanner for the other two to get the best angles. The leftmost one was a real pain because I could only get about 2 clicks each turn and had to hold the bolt/socket with the other finger so that it would ratchet rather than just turning back and forth. Not a big job, but it's one of those fiddly annoying ones. Then just remove the latch from the bonnet when you open it. You just need to pry at it with a big screwdriver until it comes off. Then put the release cable back in and bolt the latch back on. I would recommend perhaps sticking some kind of glue or silicone or gasket maker on the part that slides over the U-shaped slot to prevent that coming out. Mine did that again after I went to the effort of taking it off. I'm yet to bother doing this all again, but I'll do that next time and hopefully it shouldn't pop out again. If your cable is actually broken, then obviously replace it, but mine just popped out for some reason.
  11. The "i can lend you" thread

    I do. Sorry it might be a little late now tho haha
  12. Gearbox mounts

    Just the gearbox mount or all the engine mounts too? I bought just the gearbox mount and I reckon that should feel better without being too costly or too much hassle and won't raise the engine. They seem cheapest on RHDJapan btw. I suspected the engine dampers didn;t do much
  13. Gearbox mounts

    Correct me if I'm wrong, but my impression of engine dampers is that they're the cheaper and easier and less good alternative to new engine mounts. But that being said, the nismo engine mounts that I'd opt for sound like they raise the engine sometimes to the point of touching the strut brace, which could be annoying. I haven't tried either myself though, but I've been thinking about it.
  14. Wheels, Tyres and suspension needed

    Agreed. Sounds fair to me. How much cheaper is that insurance? How bad is the damage this time?
  15. Wheels, Tyres and suspension needed

    Oh yeah and check out the facebook group "Tyson's cars, bikes, trucks etc..." for cheap cars to buy him. Sometimes I see something like a 2000 lancer with 160,000kms on it for $1000. I can't believe how cheap the low end cars are on there. That or allclassifieds. Pulsars or lancers or corollas or civics are the way to go, I reckon. I had an n13 1.6L sedan for 7 years and I had to buy it myself with a loan from my parents (interest free) and I learned to service it and fix it when it broke and it was still going when i bought my 180sx and I eventually sold it for $300 with something like 320,000kms on it haha.
  16. Wheels, Tyres and suspension needed

    You sound like you've been very nice about it. I don't know if I would have given him a second chance with it so quickly. I don't have kids myself yet but I reckon the best car to learn in would be something equivalent to what I had. A cheap n13 pulsar with heaps of kms on it. Starting off with no power and FWD is a good place to start, I reckon. Then upgrade a few years later. It seems unfair to me that you would have to sell the s13 cos it sounds like you've loved it a long time. I guess it depends on your finances but maybe just buy him a $1000 car, or even better, make him work and save up for a $1000 car so that he appreciates it more. And ban him from using the s13 for quite a long time until he's a proven driver. There's really no way he could possibly believe you're being unfair given that he's smashed up your baby twice and possibly flogged the clutch to death on your other car. You are far more patient than most people would be.
  17. I'm having the exact same problem in my 180. It happened after I got my car back from the smash repairers. I haven't gotten around to checking it out yet though haha. I went through 3 fuses for indicators but i haven't blown one now for a week and a half. but my indicators used to flash when i hit the central locking (mongoose m80 alarm/central locking) and now only the right hand side indicators (but all of them) flash when i do that. I had damage at the front left of my car from a crash so it's probably either there somewhere or the bit where the alarm hooks into the left hand side indicators isn't connected up and is shorting somehow. No idea where that second one would be though. But if I find my issue I'll post on here to let you know what I found. I've been having issues with my amplifier when i reinstalled it too, so i'm not sure if it's doing something weird to the electrics. I've been tempted to get it checked out by an auto electrician but can't really afford it atm .
  18. 180sx fmic with ac install?

    There's plenty of room in front of the radiator for your FMIC.
  19. Shell V-Power vs BP Ultimate

    My car seems to prefer BP ultimate. But v-power goes pretty good too. Caltex seems the worst to me out of the 3. Mixing some BP ultimate 98 with some United 100 seems to go pretty nicely too.
  20. I hate to be a wet blanket, but I used standard heater hose cut to size off the roll from autobarn and after a year I found that the hose really absorbed a lot of oily residue to the point where it became really soft. It can also not handle the heat very well if you don't have your heat shield covering your turbo and the hose sits near the turbo manifold. It definitely does the job, but it's not ideal. I bought silicone pipe off ebay and cut it to size and that seems better and looks nicer and it's not that pricey on ebay (there is a seller in the uk that can give you any length you want in blocks).
  21. Formal Car Hire/Cruise - Drop off

    What kind of car were you after? Lots of silvias would struggle to fit 4 people haha. There is a facebook group called "ACT Formal Car Hire" with 1000 members so if you post there, i'm sure you can find something.
  22. ACT import rule

    I heard that they sent letters out to all the mechanics saying that imports had to go to Dickson. I believe that. But I think it's an empty threat as I don't think any new laws or regulations have been passed that would enforce that. But since most mechanics are probably scared of the empty threat, you probably would struggle to find a mechanic who will do your car, annoyingly. I think that's really unfair and unjustified. If I had the time, I'd actually like to request an FOI on that whole thing and find out how that decision was made and if it's enforceable and exactly what it applies to etc. If anybody wants to lodge an FOI request and post the results here, that'd be great haha. Luckily I already have my imported car registered here, because i'm sure dickson would fail it on a lot of stuff and cost me lots of money for absolutely zero safety reasons.
  23. Canberra projects

    How did that brake setup go Moose?
  24. Hey all. My Mongoose M80 alarm chirps when i lock or unlock the car etc. Just the other day, that chirp became really quiet. I don't know what is causing this. It still chirps but just isn't as loud as it should be, it's really quiet. The earth and the wires next to the siren seem fine. Any ideas of what might cause this? Any advice would be appreciated. Today it seems to have gotten even quieter to the point of barely being able to hear it if you are listening really hard and it's quiet. I was thinking maybe it's related to water from all the rain getting in the siren somehow, but it faces down and should have cleared out by now or when the engine heats up the engine bay. Any ideas of what I can do to fix this or what the cause might be?
  25. Mongoose M80 siren gone quiet

    Sorry I just realised I hadn't updated this and I hate reading threads and not seeing what the result was, so here it is. I ended up buying a replacement siren on ebay for $70 and just installed it myself. Just use the key to turn off the siren. Or if you don't have the key for the old one, wrap it in a blanket and cover your ears because it will make a noise when you unplug it, unless it's that water damaged that it isn't loud at all. So just mount it where the existing one was and solder the wires together as the old one was. Works a charm.