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Rhino-ACT

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Everything posted by Rhino-ACT

  1. I'm looking at getting coilovers for my 180sx but am uncertain what spring rates to go for. It's a daily driver and I want it to be firm but soft enough that my gf won't complain too much and my car won't develop lots of rattles etc. What spring rates and types of coilovers or normal springs have you guys used in an S-chassis (especially 180sxes) and how did it feel? I've read a broad varying range of opinions but I thought this would be a good way of being able to get first hand tips from people. I don't know anybody with an S-chassis car and coilovers that I can go ride in to see for myself. I've also been thinking about the spring rates for front vs back, because the coilovers generally come in 8kg front and 6kg rear or else 6kg front and 4 kg rear. The ratio between the front and rear in these two common sizes are different, so I'd also like to get a feel for what the balance should be between front and rear. I was thinking it might be better to have it more even so the front isn't so harsh but the back is fairly firm (where nobody normally sits) and so the back can step out reasonably easily because that's fun. Any advice or tips would be useful.
  2. Thanks for that. So you wouldn't expect people to complain getting into your car? haha I'm just trying to picture how hard they are. Those Silkroads are meant to be really smooth too. I'm tossing up between those or probably more likely just BC racing BR coilovers. And does 6/4 seem the right balance between front and back hardness?
  3. Where did they end up mounting the tweeters? I installed mine myself and put them in the door near the top front bit where it sorta angles slightly towards you. I used a hole saw drill attachment and just filed it clean and shoved it in there and it looks quite neat.
  4. I ended up replacing my actuator for the one from a $29 central locking kit from Repco and it works perfectly now. Plugged in and fitted so easily without modification also.
  5. Race tech boost gauge flashing

    Yeah, i read that you hold down the button on the front while it's starting up and it puts it in silent mode. It might have been up to 30 seconds that you have to hold it for, from memory. I haven't installed mine yet, but hopefully once you do that once, it will remember and stay silent from then on.
  6. Race tech boost gauge flashing

    I bought a race tech gauge and wired up the power etc before i plugged in the sensor and it was blinking exactly like that. Maybe check the wires to the sensor. Are they plugged in on both sides ok?
  7. Does it seem to try to lock when you press the button? I have a similar issue and i haven't worked it out for certain yet but i think mine may be the actuator that pushes the locking rod to lock or unlock it. Try taking the door trim off and have a look from inside when you press the button. Does the actuator move slightly but not enough to push the locking rod enough to lock or unlock it? It might be that the actuator is dead. Also check to make sure that the actuator is secured to the locking rod and not just moving independently. Mine slipped off at one point and wasn't unlocking. If it is secured and it doesn't even sound like it's trying to move when you press the button, then try fuses for the central locking controller etc, some googling told me that they can blow and cause random issues like this. I'm reasonably sure that it's my actuator, because i checked witha multimeter and the power signal is being sent to my actuator when i press the button, and it does move slightly and it does unlock, but just doesn't lock again. Rarely sometimes it does actually work both ways also. Those could be things to check also. I'm going to get a new actuator and replace that and see how it goes. I'm in the process of working out if they are all the same, so i could just buy a $29 random branded central locking kit from jb hifi and plug that in and see if it works. One thing to note also, the drivers side one is the master, so the passenger side one will only lock/unlock when the drivers side one does. So it's quite likely to only be that drivers side one causing the issue.
  8. CARS SPOTTED : ACT

    What time was that Just before 6. Wasn't you widebody 180. The one I saw had a fancy paint job and a decal down the side. I saw that one today on gundaroo drive. Interesting paintwork, but was hard to get a good look in my mirror
  9. Side door speakers s13

    I did this myself recently and researched it, there are templates online you can print off to cut your own adapter plate out of MDF. People recommended either buying the plastic one on ebay or else adding some kind of paint or something to the MDF to make it more waterproof, because a fair bit of moisture gets in there and you don't want the wood to rot.
  10. Side door speakers s13

    You just leave the door card and the oval shaped speaker grille on that as it is. But underneath that, your round 6.5" speaker sits against the door itself once you buy or make that adapter to put it in. The stock speaker is tiny and fairly deep inside the hole inside a plastic angled enclosure that you just unscrew and replace with the adapter plate to fill the hole and allow you to screw in the speaker to the adapter plate which is screwed onto the door.
  11. Mongoose M80 siren gone quiet

    I'll need to replace the siren? Serious? How much would that cost?
  12. CARS SPOTTED : ACT

    Saw a nice white 180sx type x in civic on friday night. Waved as I went past in my white type x also haha. Sexy car
  13. if you plug in the iphone does it just show whatever is on the iphone screen whichever app is open? and you control it on the iphone and it's just outputted video to the screen? you could get one of those diagnostic obd apps for iphone in that case and display it on the screen with a bluetooth odb/consult adapter?
  14. S13 dash flickering

    how did it go? I'm not sure about the turning on and off. I've had lots of issues with clusters in cars and usually it's just the cluster needs replacing (or resoldering perhaps).
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