Jump to content


Standard Member
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Posts posted by Rhino-ACT

  1. Did you ever find your car? I noticed on facebook 2 other 180s getting stolen in the last few weeks in Canberra. And since there's only like 8 on carsales for all of australia, that's got to be a very significant percentage of them that get stolen. I reckon if we find out who stole them, they should be fair game for whatever we want to do to them. Stealing a camry is one thing, but stealing someone's car that they pour their life and all their money and hundreds of hours of their time into is something very different. You never get that back with insurance.

  2. I noticed there are ways of ordering bulk oil filters at a significant saving. Eg this one https://www.sparesbox.com.au/ryco-oil-filter-z442-box-of-24-z442-box24 which works out to $11.33 each. I believe there are genuine Nissan ones on AliBaba for slightly cheaper even, but the benefits really stack up when buying a large quantity like this.


    Are there others in Canberra that'd be interested in splitting a bulk order of these? Say if we got 4 people buying 6 each, it'd be about $68 for 6 filters in the above deal.


    Let me know if anybody is interested in this sort of thing. Particularly for the Z442 (Ryco code) filters for an S13 SR20DET, which I believe is also used for many Skylines. I'm open to other sources or getting the genuine Nissan filters from Alibaba or whatever as well.

  3. I've been using Gulf Western SYN X semi synthetic 10w40 in the 180. I hear it's underrated. They put zero effort into marketing. It looks like crap from the label, and their premium stuff looks the same as their cheapest stuff, but they're big in the mining industry apparently. They're Aussie and meet all the standards, and they go on sale ridiculously cheap sometimes. To the point where I change my oil every 3000kms for a street car. Can't beat that. The main differences between the really expensive stuff and the cheaper stuff seems to me to be about how long it takes to break down. If you get some semi decent stuff and change it ridiculously often, then that main difference becomes nothing. Happy to hear what others think, but my car has been happy on it for some years now.

  4. What? stock exhaust from the diff back? that'd surely be a big bottleneck up top. Wouldn't it be better to get a proper diff back exhaust system fabricated that you can bolt on and swap back and forth with the stock one? That way if you get defected, you just swap them back, but otherwise you have a decent system.

  5. The tuner adjusted the fuel pressure down a bit below stock they said, to get idle AFRs where he wanted them. I can hook up a fuel pressure gauge.

    I guess if the pressure changes on the gauge after fitting the new pump, that might be a sign that the FPR is crap hey?


    I'll give that a go. Do you reckon i'll need the upgraded wiring on the 450? I'm not making that much power so I wasn't thinking I'd need it. maybe 270kW down the line when i go e85. I got 223kW peak with the slipping clutch on 98 at 1 bar boost (wastegate)

  6. I just got a tune and had a few issues. One being my clutch is farked, should have replaced that beforehand but wasn't slipping until the extra power. So I'll have to get a retune after that.


    The other issue it's got is a massive flat spot when I hit the throttle. It decelerates hard for a second and then takes off fine after that. It's ok if I feed in the throttle really gently.

    The tuner said the Nismo adjustable FPR i got isn't big enough. I bought that with the adapter to stick on my top feed rail (with bosch 1150s) so that it looks stock. All of the aftermarket FPRs seem to stand out like nothing else. What would you guys recommend I get? And is it definitely the FPR, you reckon?



    Bosch 1150s

    Top feed raceworks fuel rail

    nismo adjustable FPR (bought off gumtree, came with legit looking box and japanese on it etc, so shouldn't be fake?)

    Boscho 040 (I have a Walbro 450 e85 compatible one I can put in. Could this really old fuel pump be the issue?)


  7. I'd agree that it's become less popular here in part because

    • people are afraid of getting told to just google
    • some newer younger people don't know about it and/or use facebook instead
    • there are less silvias around nowadays
    • many of the regulars have gotten old haha

    But also because many questions have already been answered, there actually isn't always a need to ask anymore. You can google and find the answers in an old thread on this site. That's the main reason i'm not as active really. I often find the answers I need without having to ask.


    I wish I had of started a build thread for my 180, but I've been lazy. I forget to, and I feel like I'm half way through already and people may not be that interested, especially since my build is not hardcore by any means compared to other pioneers on here. It's really slow progress due to funds and time constraints.


    I've seen some threads where guys just seem to drop 6k on parts at once and then seem to take a fortnight off work just smashing through it and taking photos and detailing everything they do each night. That would be the dream, but realistically, I buy a couple parts, nothing happens for a couple months, I buy the other part I need, nothing happens for a month, then I get around to putting it in frantically on a saturday before I start drinking and forget to take even a before and after photo haha

  8. also I think most of the NS OGs have moved onto C63 AMGs, M3/4/5s etc...


    Nissans were "once" fast.. they're now all slow and shit... and R35s are a little unaffordable.


    Good example, a basic Golf R in stock trim, a reflash and good tyres will do 1m10s around Wakefield... a Silvia would need some coin thrown at it.. a boat Skyline would need at least 10k+ thrown at it.



    Whaaat. I drove a mk7 golf R...theyre pretty damn expensive. Closer to a used older r35 than any S chassis car with any level of mods really. I struggle to believe a stock golf R would do 1m10 at the same hands as someone who does less in a decent S chassis. surely. I think many of these new cars are hyped up a bit.


    More importantly, they aren't as fun!

    • Upvote 1

  9. I went with the Bosch 1150cc injectors from aftermarket industries for $99 each.

    I've got everything now, just need to put it all in and get a tune. Lol it's taking me a long time to do everything.


    One issue I've got now is the wiring adapters I got for the injectors, they don't really fit that well at all.

    What did you guys do for that?


    I got some Denso male (to go into the harness end) to EV1 female (to go into the new injector) and the EV1 end fits like a glove, but the denso end that plugs into the existing injector harness is very similar but maybe slightly different. I'll try just jamming them in and see how it goes I guess, but I was wondering what you guys did? I guess I could chop off the harness and solder it onto the adapter I've got, but I'd rather not.

  10. I don't mean to thread hijack, but I was just wondering if any of you guys have tried these injectors or if you think they'd be ok in an s13 sr20det?




    I was going to get these ones originally http://scottyscustoms.com.au/product/xspurt-1000-short-14mm/ because they're short and will fit under a top feed fuel rail a little easier, but they're currently out of stock. So Scotty offered me the long nose ones instead, but I'm just not sure if they will work very well in my car. What's with the long stem? wouldn't it be more likely to just blast fuel against the walls of the intake rather than atomise, if it's too far in? If it even fits inside properly? What do you guys think? They're supposedly better for spray etc

  11. Hmm, so if I'm getting my cams and valve springs replaced, I should get the head studs replaced too?


    If you can just pop out the bolts and replace with stronger ones in a star pattern without needing to remove the head or replace the gasket, that might be a good option.


    Is it true that the main issues with running higher boost are the studs stretching and the head lifting? So the stock original head gasket itself isn't usually the problem?


    Or is it very little extra labour to replace the head gasket too, and a much better idea?