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Found 9 results

  1. Have these up for sale. Not going to be needed for next project. Won't fit my manifold (unfortunately). Turbo is BW S360 .88ar T4 open Wg is genuine tial 44mm Turbo is brand new. WG has about 10mins idle time on it. Turbo $900ono (turbo cost me 900USD + post + taxes) WG 400ono (Cost me $525) chenery.w.j@gmail.com
  2. Team2j - 2jzs14

    hey guys recently i have just jumped into an s- chassis for the misses and i to have some fun in. We did have a r31 track hack but at the start of the year i managed to blow 2 motors and turbos, so i cracked the shits and parted it out! The whole time i had the car it was just 1 thing after another and in the end even my misses said just sell it and get something else. Cant argue with that... amirite? So went and looked at a few 200, 180's etc but nothing was realy meeting the quota until a mate of a mate said he was selling his and i knew that was the one. Mid 40 year old bloke owned it and kept it meticulously clean. Took it for a drive and that was that. Heres a couple of snaps of v1.0 and v2.0... Specs (that I know so far) 1st Engine specs: BLOWN UP! Je Piston Tomie cams 740cc inj Gt3071r Fmic Massive pod 040 fp Microtek ecu Ext and baffled sump Drivetrain: R33 gearbox Japwarehouse adaptor plate " " Dogleg shifter 10" Npc Cushion Button One piece tailshaft Current Engine Specs: Scratch That! Gktech clutch fan Gktech waterneck spacer 1000cc id inj Powerflow adj fpr Walbro 460lph Ext and baffled sump Gt3071r Acl bearings New Engine Setup: Reco 2j with hd springs Acl Bearings Arp studs- Rods, Mains and Head Gt3582r Tog Single turbo maninfold TurboSmart 45mm Wastegate Aeroflow adj fpr Aeroflow billet fuel rail Speedflow fuel filter -10 Braided feed line -8 Braided return 1000cc inj 400lph walbro intank 2x External Bosch 044s Surge tank Powerflow 19 row oil cooler and relo Koyo rad 2x 12 spal thermo fans with custom shroud Header tank Standard manifold with 80mm Throttlebody welded on Ati/Titan harmonic balancer Oil catch can Evo 8 oil cooler converted to Ps cooler Drivetrain: R154 5 spd Direct clutch twinplate Rated @ 800hp and 1100nm cold 1300nm hot Push/pull convertor One pices Tailshaft Weldie S14 6 bolt 3.89 Weldie R33 5 bolt 4.11 Suspension: Adj castor rods Hardrace adj camber " " Adj toe " " Adj trac Shockworks coilovers 8kg F 6kg R Rack spacers Astra electric Ps pump (incab) Jdi Track knuckles Jdi 25mm extended lcas 20mm spacers Interior: Haltech ps2000 Racepak Autometer fuel gauge Hurstline locker BlackSpade Half cage Fire ext Fake Nardi Brakes: R33 calipers and handbrake setup Slotted rotors F n R Green stuff pads all round Abs delete Wheels: Rotas or drifteks? 9.5j +0 F 9.5j +12 R Work emotion cr kai 18 x 9.5j +11 Exterior: Uras full body kit 50mm flares Custom made big Gt Wang Will update the more I find shit Engine is built for 30psi on e85, got my tuner to give it a check and it made 281rwkw on 20.5psi on pump... Just booked in for its first track day on oct 25th at winton, still got plenty to do to get it ready but hopefully time and murphy is on my side. Things to do prior to track day are: Coilovers (done) Roll guards (done) Rack spacers (done) Extended sump (done) and make bash plate Rb25 gb (done) Bride seats Roll cage (done) Harness's Weld diff (done) New alignment
  3. Bee*R rev limiter

    I have for sale a bee*R rev limiter, it's in vgc brand new never used. I took it out of the box but never got to install it in my car before I sold it, suits all rotary, 4 and 6 cylinder engines. Asking for $150 but I'm negotiable.
  4. S14a 2jz swap needs?!

    Hi everyone i have a s14a with s15 engine and gearbox I was half way through my modding decided to change my goals and go with the 2jz engine swap and the r154 5 speed gearbox 2jz known for being a strong engine the engine being able to handle up to 900 hp on stock internals seems like a better option so I'm saying goodbye to all my other toys just fund this need. I know that I will need the 2jz engine r154 gearbox and the mounts,clutch, custom made exhaust,engine wiring, ecu,wiring,custom made tail shaft,but what other little bits and pieces will I need to complete this project. I'm sorry if this topic is elsewhere but I tried searching I couldn't find what I was looking for. Any information shared is well appreciated and if someone that already done this swap can tell me what troubles they stumbled on through this project would be highly appreciated too. Might aswell do it right the 3rd time lol. And also what parts would I need to remove from my current setup and am able to sell? Thanks
  5. What you want from a high performance racing oil? The modern engine designs of today need lubricants that can handle higher running temps to ensure viscosity consistency, while reducing consumption and oil film breakdown. Have you not noticed how modern engine run hotter? They are generally running 10-15deg C hotter or more when supercharged/ turbocharged. This is to improve combustion and reduce emissions. So how hot is hot when a car overheats? Enough to break down most oils and melt soft metal bearings, that’s how hot. Everyday oils are not able to handle excessive heat though and will reduce in viscosity by as much as 40% once it reaches 130 °C which means a 10w40 will perform like a 10w25. Motul’s high performance Ester synthetics are designed to handle higher temps without affecting the viscosity. High Performance engines always increase the load pressures placed upon moving components. High lift cams and stiffer valve springs load up the lifters, rocker arms and valve ends. Newer designs incorporate gear driven overhead cams which bring a new challenge. More internal gearing will shear the engine oil faster. High performance engines also need a balanced friction modifier package so that the ring seals stay strong, roller and ball bearings roll in the race and plain bearings have as little drag as possible. Because of this, Motul adds Extreme Pressure (EP) additives such as Zinc (ZDDP) and a STRONG EP additive, called a Sulfurized Ester to handle the shear/meshing of the engine. EP additives come into play at the instant an extreme pressure is applied and high temperatures are created. ZINC lays down a barrier that prevents metal to metal contact and the SULFURIZED ESTER produces a sacrificial film that is destroyed during very strong extreme pressures. The key advantage of Sulfurized Ester is that it prevents SEIZING. EP additives are generally corrosive especially those used in car gearboxes. The other advantage of Esters is that it is far less corrosive and more environmentally safe. Advertisements for oil products being tested with a ball bearing under 100,000 pounds of pressure fail to mention that most EP additives are corrosive. Performance engines used in endurance types of competition need strong ANTI-ACID (BASE, TBN, total base number). Condensation (the steam that you see coming out of your tail pipe in the morning) is a natural by-product of combustion in an engine. This condensation, which is acidic water, passes by the rings under compression into the crankcase and mixes with the sulphur, SULFURIC ACID is created. ANTI-ACID (Base) neutralizes the acid before it can cause any damage. E85 engines have it worse. E85 creates a greater acidic dilution than conventional ULP so look for a higher TBN is you run E85. High revving engines need strong Anti-Foam Additives. Higher RPMs aerates the oil more and bubbles will cause damage to your engine. Why? Foam is air; air will compress and also insulates. Air being compressed under load will separate oil and permit metal to metal contact. It also doesn’t transmit heat from hot metal parts to the oil very well or vice versa. Oil temp’s can rise due to inefficient heat exchange. Another major problem is oil pumps are not designed to pump air and your oil pressure will drop. Endurance engines need strong dispersants to suspend materials and combustion by-products which are created and rubbed off during normal operations. If you find worn components in your older race engine, ask yourself a question: Where did the material go? It has been compressed and the material is still there, just in a different place; or The materials were rubbed off and washed right into the oil! You want the material to stay in tiny pieces and stay mixed in the oil so that the oil filter can do its job. There are many devices on the market now that surround the filter with a magnet to capture some wear metals. Race engines need a strong detergent. With more heat generation (more horsepower per ci) trying to fry the oil onto the engine parts, carbon build-up and other by-products from combustion need to be washed away quickly so it doesn’t end up clogging the oil galleries. These are only some of the points Motul considers when designing high performance fluids. As discussed earlier, synthetics can handle much higher running temperatures than conventional petroleum oils and can withstand more stress. Many people ask, so what! I don’t push my vehicle that hard and I change oil every 3000kms. I don’t need expensive performance oil in my car. This type of thinking is wrong! Picture this; it’s a hot summer’s day and you are in peak hour traffic. For whatever reason, your car starts to get hot, real hot (Thermo fan stops working or a radiator hose breaks, whatever it may be). What oil would you like to have in your car? A mineral oil that acts like butter which burns up and evaporates very quickly, coking up your piston rings and lifters with carbon. Or Motul Synthetic/Ester oil that can handle super high RUNNING temps without the resulting damage (160°C to 190°C)? Motul High Performance Synthetic Ester oils are INSURANCE not just maintenance. The same is true about brake fluids and gear oils. Brake fluid only fails you when you need it the most – when braking! Same goes for engine oil. For further information regarding the Motul range, visit www.motul.com.au! Join us on FB https://www.facebook...323033041043007
  6. You may have heard over the years a lot of hype about Motul Oils. It might have seemed like a fad or passing faze to you at the time. You’re thinking it’s just another marketing spiel right?! 0% Shear Technology, Double Ester, Complex Ester, yeah, yeah, yeah. What can be so good about it? Well here’s a little known story from a user of Motul oils, GAS Motorsports. GAS Motorsports currently hold a number of world records including the Sport Compact record and fastest full bodied Toyota Supra. Their oil of choice: Motul 6100 Synergie. Not some secret formulation, but your standard, off the shelf 6100 15w50. The team had already had success using 6100 but here’s more of a reason why they would never use anything else other than Motul products. They have a new car in the team, the black Plumbmaster Scion. With an engine producing over 1600HP and gear shifts at 10,000RPM you get the idea that it would need the best engine oil for protection under this much stress. The car was still in the test’n’tune period in preparation for the Sydney Jamboree when it was being driven by Ben Bray at WSID in March 2012. After a few clean passes, the car was showing no signs of issues until the pass when it was paired with the GAS Motorsports Celica. A faint smoke trail followed the car from the 60ft line and got worse to the end. When the car got back to the pit area, the data logs were checked. It was every race team’s worst nightmare. Insufficient oil pressure for the majority of the run! A new car, a new engine and the last thing you want to go wrong is engine failure. The team was considering the possibility of having to replace the crank, all the bearings and con rods, adding up to excess of $15,000. See for yourself at the rotorg33k youtube channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/rotorg33k Have a look at the video titled: GAS 2JZ - Scion vs Celica Side by Side 650s - FLYBY! So, why did it lose oil pressure? The oil filter collapsed and restricted flow to the engine. Here’s is what it looked like when they removed it. With the oil pressure gauge showing as low as 0psi by the end of the pass, you can see that the filter would have been totally unforgiving to the oil supply by this time. Fearing the worst, the team pulled down the motor expecting to find all sorts internal damage. As they began to strip the engine they were astonished to find themselves having to search for damaged components. No signs of damage, not even a scratch or burr on the big end or main bearings! Now we’re talking a full power pass, 1600hp+ with little to no oil pressure and the only sign of failure is a collapsed oil filter. It’s unheard of! If you went to the Sydney Jamboree, you would have seen it back out there and competing with the same engine components still running the same consistent numbers! It really does go to show that Motul’s reputation is riding on its ability to protect your engine in cases just like this. Take it from the GAS Motorsports team, Motul protects your engine better than you’d ever expect. Countless cases like this prove that Motul is not expensive oil, its cheap insurance!
  7. Gas Motorsport a Sydney based workshop was formed in 1994 as a development program to test the boundaries of Toyota's cult engine the 2JZ. After a large investment of research and testing into the 2JZ Gas have dominated Sports Compact Drag Racing. At this years Fuchs test and tune day Joe Signorelli piloted the Gas Motorsport 2JZ Celica down the Sydney Dragway quarter mile in a world record breaking 6.38sec at over 223mph. Gas Motorsport exclusively uses Motuls off the shelf oils for their 1000HP+ drag & dyno motors for it high film strength , high heat resistant temps and excellent lubrication properties . Gas Motorsport Mechanic takes us through one of their 2JZ motors. This particular motor was running 55PSI making 1400HP for over 3 years on Motul oil. check out the video . http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=laXApz3-8LE For more technical info on Motul oils click here: http://www.motul.fr/au/en
  8. Hey, guys ! A small intro. Im russian and work and live in China, Beijing. Each f**king year there is this epic drift event in a city nearby. World Drift Series its name. WDSÊÀ½çÆû³µÆ®ÒÆϵÁÐÈü¹ÙÍø-WDS ,WDS , WDSCHINA£¬WDS Drift, WDS Drifting You can see some videos on youtube and coverage on speedhunters. American drifters(Matt Powers, JR, Ross Petty etc) are invited to event for even more madness and destruction. In 2010 I was driving an ass-spec C33 build in one week with 1jz and small T3-T4 turbo. All was good, only the f**king W58 factory clutch was sleeping. Untill on the last day at night I got my friend to borrow his r154 with ACT HD clutch. Which helped a bit. Funny thing is I got very deep into the grid. Going through top 32s and to top16s. Was kicked out in top4 battle by Ueo. Top 8 battle was with Imamura and I got lucky his half-shaft snapped)) Otherwise my weak ass skills and car wouldn't let me finish in top 8. Which is really funny with chinese guys buying expensive here s-chassis built by japanese/taiwanese for crazy money. Anyway, its always a huge problem to find a good garage or tuner here. But I was lucky and got help from a local guy. He basically sponsored me for event. Half of the parts on the car was mine. Engine wise it was his. Event starts on 29th of september. I bought the car on 15th of september from a friend. With a dead 4cyl carb CA20 engine. Cars had to be in the padocks on 27th. But I could negotiate for late entry on early morning of 29th. So here I start. Day 1 September 15th Got the piece of shit car. Looked god on the outside. But the roof line by the windscreen rusted to shit. Seller f**ked me over on that;) Could probably negotiate a better deal if I knew about that. Really gay red interior. I wanted to leave it. But f**k it. Scraped it all of in the end. Day 2 September 16th Brought over some of the parts for the car. Powered by max hydro handbrake, fake bride seats, 3 diffs with different final gears, half shafts for spares. simple and brute. 9.5J ET15 chinese wheels. Got only 2 haha. Rest is 9j with 20 offset. Here is a good edition for the engine. Guys here are really sketchy about turbos. So its either garrett BB or hks or greddy. I don't have that moneys. So I went to a diesel truck turbo shop. And picked this baby up. Its genuine garrett GT3782R. Journal bearing. T4 devided AR1.0 on the hot side. Manufactured in shanghai garrett plant for some truck. Compressor: 58/82mm Turbine:74/64mm A bit similar to HKS GT3240 with T04S rear or GT37. Or even TD07S-25G. I bought it for USD550 which is f**king cheap. And it works good. Day 3 I didn't do shit to the car. Waiting for parts and playing around with friends rb25. Installing a truck turbo on his engine. No pics. http://www.56.com/u3...jQzMDc4NzM.html http://player.56.com/v_NjQzMDc4NzM.swf http://www.56.com/u2...jQzMDc4NTk.html http://player.56.com/v_NjQzMDc4NTk.swf Day 4 September 19th Got all the interior out. Got some dry ice and got all the sound deadening out. Started doing the boxes for the roll cage. Day 5 September 20th Was working on the rollcage with the guys. Trying to replicate some nascar bars haha. Test fitted 2jz block to see the fitment. f**king engine mounts from zero lab are total worthless shit. They way they space the mounts is impossible. They don't even line up. Had to get one mount copied here and used the same mount on both sides. The only way it looked like it could work out and it did ))) Day 6 September 21th Run out of tube for rollcage. Started on the rear subframe. Made some solid mount raise rear subframe mounts. Also got some parts in. 4 rear 2 pot calipers for my car. 2jz AT bellhosuing for some experiments. Which are really f**king going to happen. And some premade brackets to run individual 2 pot calipers for hydro handbrake. Got the suspension arms from my old car. China spec. But worked on daily every day for 2 years no problem. Day 7 September 23rd Pretty much done on the roll cage. I wish we could use more time on that. But its a race against time:( Finished assymbling the rear suframe and fitted on car. 2 calipers on each side + driftworks knuckles a present from my friend. Should be pretty good for drifting haha Test fitted the turbo and tried the 2jz-ge+t down pipe. Should work out pretty good, Day 8 September 24 More pics of the turbo. Look at the double flappers. Haha. This thing has some mighty actuator opening at 2bar. Had do ditch all that crap and run it wastegate. Which was the original idea. Guy is doing his magic. Doing the wiring. He is pro and this job is for him. He tunes HKS Vpros. Got some ideas from SerialNine X8 a long time ago. Just couldn't realise it earlier. Also twin wastegates. Chinese 38mm. Which seezed a couple times at the drift event. Making a f**king hussle. Unbolt, disassamble, sand the valve neck assamble put back in. Don't wanna do that every time right ? ))) I'm cheap ass. Ended modifying the front crossmember. Moved the steering rack mounts forward by 2.5cm to help cure the stuck steering at lock. Hate that. Shit worked and I'm happy. Day 9 September 25 Front suspension fit - ok! Crossmember in - ok! Engine in - ok))) Now was the weak part: doing the driveshaft. No one really knows how to do one. And no balancers around. There was a 3cm gap between toyota input shaft and nissan rear. I first wanted to make a flange to mate the two together. But that would take time which we didn't have. Decided to get the nissan flange out and pressed in toyota one and welded shut. Worked out just right. Redid the driveshaft mount. Worked no problems even past 100mph or 180kph. Liked how it went. Nice ghetto style Day 10 September 26th Had a lazy afternoon. Decided to cut out the front innerfenders out, Tires would rub them on full lock. I didn't have wheel spacers. So inner fenders had to go. Cut !!! Maestro continued on his wiring magic, changing inj and coilpacks connectors and rewiring the engine. Had to modify the downpipe a bit. Not the cleanest job. But it works, right ? Started mocking up the radiator fitment, intercooler. Will run this cool vicsous fan shroud. From Toyota Crown JZS133. Which are abundunt here. And manual too;) W58. If you guys need factory clutch parts I can hook you up:)
  9. S14 2JZGTE - Track build

    Where to start... Here is my ride, i've been asked to start a build blog, maybe it'll help keep the motivation levels up on actually finishing this rig? So far. 2JZ-GTE Lots of firewall mods. tremec T56 custom adaptor plate, flywheel, spigot bearing and tilton triple plate clutch Kazz 2way diff Next purchase, intercooler, radiator and front bar. I will be building a V mount setup, with hopefully about a foot of pipework. Thanks for the comments guys, will add more pics this weekend. This is the plan for the car. Next im building the front end, waiting for pay day to purchase rx7 V mount intercooler, al. radiator and front bar. Im in the process off striping shit of Fred thats not needed; air con, hydrofan water pump, heater hoses for what seems like every thing etc... im also going to change the seq. twin turbo setup to a true twin, this will let me strip off a boot load of vacuum hoses. Toyota must have an Engineer who has a fetish for running every thing from vacuum hoses. I want as little hoses on Fred as possible, not for weight, but less components = less shit to fail and less spare parts. Ill be adding a non-hydro waterpump, oil filter relocation with cooler, power steering pump oil cooler. that'll have to wait to the following pay... in July lol. After that will be brakes, im thinking R33 GTST, would love the R33 Gtr brembo's but $$$! The engine mounts were made for a single turbs 2JZ, since I have the bulky TT setup (for now only, eventually will upgrade, once I actually get to drive it) I needed to make further fire wall mods... meaning cut more out. Now there is no room for clutch master cylinder or brake booster. So im going to run an internal floor mounted pedal box. Seat and pedal pox are the next step. Then comes the fun part... electrics and EMS. Hopefully funds will allow a haltech with Racepak dash. Oh, almost forgot. The fuek system is about 50% done. Ive Bosche 044 with surge tank monted in boot with standard furl tank. Now I have to make the fuel lines, im thinking of running them inside the car, at first thought it seems unsafe, but really, with a full roll cage, if the fuel lines rupture inside the car due to an accident, i've prob got bigger problems. like a brick wall or another car inside my car... Ill take this time to mention who has actually done most of the fab work, I bought the car with the Cage and engine mounts made by Mr x, im not sure if he'll want his name on here. He built the cage, front tube work, fire wall etc... Im going to cover in front tubs once the V mount setup is made, if room permits, ill add some duct work for brake cooling. Ill likely use 3mm al. plate. The plan is to have the front end detachable with a few bolts. The plan is to install perspex windows, all but the wind shield. Paint and wheels... I would like to paint it Acid green, with black and white vinyl work. Ill keep the meshies on it for now, but eventually put some buddies on it. ill keep the updates and pics coming. Mick ok, heres some more pics; Flywheel, Clutch, V mount thats not happening any more becouse its too hard, oil catchcan, coolant header with overflow, true twin setup with alot less toyota pipework, Enjoy, I should be finished mounting the radiator, intercooler, catchcan and header tank this weekend. im picking up the rocker covers tomorrow with -6 weld ons for catch can, so the oil pipework can be done aswell... yeah, enjoy!
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