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  1. If ever you've compared a B&M/C's gearstick to the oem one, you'll have noticed the huge difference in throw, effort of movement and gear feedback. Flicking through gears with a B&M can be fun, but it gets annoying really quickly and can sometimes be hard to get out of the gate at WOT. Likewise, the oem stick has a smoother action and is less harsh on the box, but it feels like you're changing gears with a flacid horse cock. Cutting the thread off is dumb, whereas upgrading to a Nismo solid shifter is like paying $200 for the horse to get a boner. The cleanest and cheapest option is to DIY yourself a proper solid shortened shifter. Difficulty = 5 Where 0 is washing your dog, and 10 stopping them from rolling in the nearest poo. Time Required = Under 5 hours Disclaimer If you aren't confident or are still learning to cut/weld things, don't be a noob and risk breaking your only gearstick if it means that you can't get home/to work/McDonalds/strip club/etc. Buy a spare stick and work on that, or schedule some time in which you can get a replacment if you mess up. Also, be sure not to cut appendages off or set fire to yourself. Tools Required OEM Nissan gearstick Mig or Arc Welder plus protective gear Angle grinder with 1mm cutting discs Drill Variety of drill bits and grinding stones Dremel or drill with grinding stonecan use drill instead) Razor knife 3/4" mild steel washer Fibreglass resin + catalyst (optional) Masking tape Needlenose pliers Options and Issues If desired, in preference to welding you can instead fill the outer shell with a glue or resin. Fibreglass resin will NOT work for this. I have tried and the outer shell broke free after one day of usage, so you must use Sikaflex or something that turns solid and has incredible hold If you wish the stick to be heavier and slightly more solid (I guess?), you can cut the washer in half and weld just one side, fill the cavity with fibreglass resin, then weld the other side. Process Step 1. Remove gearstick from car. Refer to the manufacturer's Service Manual for instructions. Tape the thread with 4-6 wraps of electrical tape to protect it from damage. Step 2. Tape up gearstick boot with gaffa tape or something else that's fairly hardcore (i.e. not masking tape), wrap it with some grippy rubber gloves and clamp the shaft in a vice. Step 3. Use a 3-4mm drill bit to drill into the rubber at an angle (be careful to avoid rubbing the drill's chuck on the taped boot, or drilling through the shaft) and gradually separate the rubber from the outer shaft. You will find that some metal filings will be produced, but for the most part this doesn't matter. Even if you have a replacement rubber boot, I do NOT recommend using a torch and lighter fuel to burn out the rubber, as you'll almost certainly damage the plastic retention ring, and you won't have a spare for that. Step 4. Once the rubber appears moderately separated, either switch to a longer drill bit and plunge in deeper to ultimately remove the entire outer shaft, or save yourself some effort and cut off the section of outer shaft you wish to remove. In my case I prefer a fairly extreme drop in gear knob height, so I cut 30mm off. WARNING: DO NOT F**K UP. ONLY SLICE 5MM DEEP INTO THE STICK, AROUND THE CIRCUMFERENCE, NO DEEPER. If you cut off or cut into the central shaft, then you'll likely need a replacement. Step 5. Carefully slice the cut section at angles, then use multigrips to tear the cut section away from the rubber. Step 6. Use a razor knife remove the exposed rubber from the main shaft, then repeat Step 3 on the now-shorter outer section. Step 7. Now for the tough part. Using a combination of rubber drilling and twisting the outer shell (wear grippy mechanics gloves), remove the outer shell from the inner shaft. Do not try to hammer it out as it won't work, and don't try to clamp and pull it out as the shell will deform. Unfortunately it's just one of those jobs that takes time and effort. I have a very strong grip that I can maintain for extended periods of time, and still it took me a solid 5 - 10 minutes on the S14 gear stick I was working on for this guide (had it out in a few minutes when modding old S13 gear levers). If you have a weaker/normal grip just take your time and have frequent rest breaks in which you drill more and pick out pieces of rubber with needlenose pliers. Step 8. Use a razor knife and grinding stone bit to clean off the rubber from the shaft and shell, as well as smoothing-out any marks or damage from the bench vice or past use. Step 9. Cut the main shaft down to size (in my case to about 25mm) and then cut the end to a point. Slide the outer shell over it and cut/adjust the main shaft until it sits in the original position when fully-seated. Step 10. Grind off the galvanised coating from the 3/4" mild steel washer and weld it to the bottom of the outer shell. Smooth out the weld with a grinder. Step 12. Bore out the hole in the washer until the main shaft slides through it perfectly. Step 13. Mount the main shaft in the outer shell, seated as far in as possible, then weld it in place. Weld in small bursts to avoid melting the plastic/rubber, and so that you can quickly extinguish the tape which will catch fire every time. You must install it with the boot and plastic retention ring in place, positioning the ring flat-side up. If installing a new boot you could probably leave it off, soften it in hot water, grease up the shaft and slide it over once finished. The plastic ring however must be in place. You'll note that my welds aren't ideal as I was welding in short bursts, however by doing so I was able to keep it in check enough that it caused no damage to the rubber. Step 14. Weld some lines at the beginning of the taper on the outer shell, then grind them into rectangles using a 1mm cutting disc. The purpose of this is to create a bump stop to avoid the chasssis insulator boot from riding up high on the stick when retained using zip ties as normal. This is a somewhat optional step, however having run modded shifters like this for a fair while, I feel it's absolutely worth your time to do it. Unless you use something powerful like a hose clamp, or tap holes and run small bolts through the shell, the rubber boot will eventually ride up the gearstick. Step 15. Paint the gear lever and install. The chassis insulator boot will be more compressed and provide a little extra resistance, however it's not a big deal. The less you cut from the outer shell, the less compression on the boot, but I've been running a chopped lever for years now and I love the lower profile.
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