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Kirksil13

S15 Spec R

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ADM delivered 2001 S15 Spec R

 

Engine

Blacktop SR20DET with vct

IHI vn14 turbo (same as pe1420)

Turbosmart IWG75 actuator

Larger r32 radiator & new oem water pump

HDI hybrid gt front mount intercooler

Greddy style intercooler piping

Intercooler water sprayer with micro mist jets

3in stainless steel bellmouth dump pipe

Xforce turbo back exhaust with venom 100cpsi cat & 3in hotdog mid muffler

Circuit sports 7 layer exhaust manifold gasket

Gktech 3in alloy intake pipe with 3in snout

Mamba braided turbo lines

JapanDyno R35 afm with 3in alloy housing and plug

3A Racing pod filter

Just Jap SRI alloy cold air box

G Plus oil cooler kit with built in thermostat

Stock bov bleeder hole blocked (now holds 20psi+)

Splitfire coilpacks

Nismo 740cc injectors

Walbro gs342 255lph fuel pump hardwired

Continental ethanol content sensor

Nistune ecu with flex board and launch control setup

Nissan quest 125amp alternator upgrade with Aeroflow turnbuckle bracket

Gates 3 piece engine belt set

Light weight 3 piece pulley set

Nismo engine mounts

Gktech eccentric throttle wheel

Front bar ducted cold air feed

Fender ducted cold air feed

233rwkw @ 20psi on e75

 

Driveline

Exedy heavy duty organic clutch kit with single mass flywheel & nissan genuine flywheel bolts

Nismo gearbox mount

 

Suspension, wheels and brakes

Tein monoflex coilovers

Front strut brace

MountCo front rubber swaybar bushes

Nolthane rear swaybar bushes

Superpro steering rack bushes

KKR adjustable castor rods

ZSS rear camber arms (hardened rubber ends)

Adjustable toe rods

Cusco castor tension brace

N1 Suspension upgraded tie rods with 6mm inbuilt lock spacers and roll center corrected ends

Transteering ball joints front & rear

Whiteline rear lca inner bushes

Rays gram light wheels 18x8.5 front & 18x9.5 rear

225/40/18 nitto invo fronts

255/35/18 momo outrun m3 rears

RDA slotted rotors front & rear

Lucas TRW brake pads front & rear

 

Interior

Red genuine recaro sr3 drivers bucket seat on bride rail

Factory optioned red leather interior

Innovate ECB1 gauge with afr/boost/fuel temp & ethanol % display

Racetech digital 2in1 oil temp/oil pressure gauge

Apexi avcr electronic boost controller with high boost switch

Digital temperature controller for intake air temps

Nismo duracon gearknob

Sony 7" touch screen dvd

Alpine type S front speakers

Kenwood rear speakers

 

Exterior

Spec R side skirts

Spec R rear pods

JDM rear bar without reflectors

Spoilerless boot lid

Electric sunroof

Nismo wind visors

BA falcon underbody air diversion tray

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Edited by Kirksil13

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Gotta love the T28 turbo super responsive

1.16 bar (16.8psi) @ 2889rpm this morning.

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Sourced an ihi vn14 turbo, same as the standard turbo that comes on the nismo 270R. They're supposed to be good for about 300-320rwhp with quicker spool than a t28. Thinking poncams & z32 afm along with the walbro pump and 1000cc injectors I got with the car purchase and maybe e85 just to spice things up a little.

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Edited by Kirksil13

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Just got a compression test done today. Results: cylinders 1 & 2- 170psi

cylinders 3 & 4- 160psi

Very happy to have a strong and healthy SR at 130,000km. Plugs are due for an upgrade to platinums though as standard plugs are starting to foul coming up to 5,000km use.

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Fitted the alloy intake and snout to the t28 today. Ive noticed boost response is a little quicker now with 3" piping and a better air path.

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Modified the stock bov to hold more boost by plugging the bleeder hole inside the two halves. Seems to pull alot harder through the rev range now. Also swapped my small k&n cone filter for a larger 3A Racing pod, induction noise become louder as a result.

Edited by Kirksil13

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Now with summer upon us and the weather heating up, i have started to notice high knock readings on the power fc hand controller when boosting off the lights after sitting idle. So i ordered an apexi style pod filter enclosure to help combat the heat soak, but after installation discovered the box wasnt air tight and still didnt eliminate my problem. My next idea is to seal the box completely, wrap the intercooler piping & intake pipe in some heat reflective tape and possibly setup a bilge fan inside the enclosure that feeds cold air from behind the headlight.

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Edited by Kirksil13

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Got around to sealing the pod filter enclosure yesterday, i used some square rubber roof flashing from bunnings to create the seal around the afm and box. Then i cut a plastic chopping board into shape using a cardboard template i made earlier and closed the sides and top around the factory snorkel and painted it black to match. Pretty happy with how it turned out.

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After owning an sr20de s13 while on my P's and becoming a regular at qld raceway and archerfield drift nights, i decided it was time to head out to eastern creek last weekend and have some fun with the s15. Let me tell you the difference in power delivery was awesome, going from a non turbo to now having 250hp at the wheels felt amazing to slide on. The transitions were smoother, I could hold alot more angle mid corner, power over was now possible and i barely had to bang the clutch as much as i did before. Overall the s15 is a much more solid, balanced and capable car compared to my old s13, whilst still being a comfortable, easy daily to drive during the week. I am more than happy with my purchase and will continue to drive, build and keep having fun with the s15 into the future.

 

Also here's a pic of my old s13

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Edited by Kirksil13

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Purchased an R35 afm with 76mm alloy pipe and harness from JapanDyno online. Was about half the price of a z32 unit and should be better to tune with also.

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Edited by Kirksil13

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Recently bought a new nissan quest 125amp alternator from the usa along with an aeroflow turnbuckle bracket to suit. Apart from drilling the bottom alternator hole out to 10mm and fitting the new bracket its a straight bolt up with all plugs and cables the same. After the installation I've already noticed its helped stop fluctuating revs at idle and on slow turns at full lock, increased spark to coilpacks while on boost, headlights are now brighter, windows wind up faster and voltage now sits at a constant 14.2volts after startup. I highly recommend this mod for anyone looking to upgrade their alternator or having voltage drop issues.

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Edited by Kirksil13

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More parts for my turbo swap come in the mail recently. Received braided water and oil lines, stainless steel turbo gaskets, circuit sports 7 layer exhaust manifold gasket and 1 bar garrett wastegate actuator.

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Edited by Kirksil13

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Fitted nismo gearbox mount to help aid 1st to 2nd gear crunch and missed shifts at high revs. Also fitted a high boost switch next to my avcr controller.

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Edited by Kirksil13

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For anyone that has a notchy or crunching gearbox I highly recommend you try nulon g70 gearbox additive. For the last 6 months my gearbox has been really notchy when cold and I've been getting a crunch when shifting at high revs from 1st to 2nd gear. This afternoon I added one 125ml tube of g70 to the box through the gearstick hole and it has 100% fixed the notchy shifting and crunching. This is definitely a product worth every cent at only $15 from supercheap you can't go wrong.

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More suspension goodies arrived today. After I noticed the s15 had a couple of busted castor rod bushes, I decided to replace the whole arm with these quality adjustable KKR items. I've previously used a pair of these before in my s13 build and was really happy with how solid they are and also like the bonus of having dust boot protectors over the rose joints.

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Edited by Kirksil13

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Out of interest, did you swap the SR20 Alternator pully onto the Quest Alternator? I bought an aftermarket Quest Alt from the States ages ago (fitting it has been low on the to-do list) and the pulley is not the same as the SR20 unit with regard to ribs. I recall the oem Quest pulleys being different and people had clearance problems installing the SR20 ones.

 

Also, what were the specs of your turnbuckle? I can always measure the gap if needed, it would just make ordering parts faster.

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The quest alternator I bought already had the 5 rib pulley on it which was a direct fit with the original belts. Pretty sure it is a series 2 nissan quest 99-02 model. It's the 125amp version not the 110amp. All I had to do was drill the lower bolt hole out to 10mm and everything fit like standard. The turnbuckle is an aero flow 90mm Adjustable piece that I also bought off ebay for $50.

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The quest alternator I bought already had the 5 rib pulley on it which was a direct fit with the original belts. Pretty sure it is a series 2 nissan quest 99-02 model. It's the 125amp version not the 110amp. All I had to do was drill the lower bolt hole out to 10mm and everything fit like standard. The turnbuckle is an aero flow 90mm Adjustable piece that I also bought off ebay for $50.

 

Hey mate currently looking doing this conversion, can you share some details regarding the alternator belt used?

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Cheers for your input KirkSil! Just finished installing my aftermarket one and you're right, the 125amp alternator has the exact same pulley/rib configuration as the S13 unit.

 

I did things a little differently though, as I compared the two alternators and the pulley position isn't actually the same between them. I ended up grinding my lower flanges to position the pulley the same as the stock one, shimmed them using washers to fit the S13 iron bracket, then I made a misjudgement. I foolishly ground the upper mount and drilled out the hole to suit the S13 adjustment bracket and although my machining was perfect... the hole didn't line up, and to make matters worse, the body of the alternator fouled the curved adjustment bracket. Fail. I then purchased a turnbuckle like yours and found that with the different alternator positioning, one of the turnbuckle lock nuts fouled the alternator. A few more washers to shim the rose joint to sit further behind the alternator and I was done.

 

Hey mate currently looking doing this conversion, can you share some details regarding the alternator belt used?

 

You use the standard factory S13 alternator belt. I'll throw up a guide when I have a chance, as there is some conflicting information on the net regarding this, hence I didn't realise that the pulley on the 125amp unit [i already owned] wasn't different to the S13 one.

 

If you want a simple installation, then do exactly the same as Kirk. Get [ONLY] a 125amp Nissan Quest alternator, a 90mm turnbuckle, some M8x35mm bolts, an oem S13 belt, drill the lower holes out to 10mm, drill the rear positive S13 harness eyelet out by 2mm, then it all bolts together like factory. If however you're concerned about the belt wearing and coming off due to the alternator pulley being 7mm too far forward, then make the mods that I did to the lower bracket, shim the difference using washers, shim the adjustment rose joint and call it a day.

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Cheers for your input KirkSil! Just finished installing my aftermarket one and you're right, the 125amp alternator has the exact same pulley/rib configuration as the S13 unit.

 

I did things a little differently though, as I compared the two alternators and the pulley position isn't actually the same between them. I ended up grinding my lower flanges to position the pulley the same as the stock one, shimmed them using washers to fit the S13 iron bracket, then I made a misjudgement. I foolishly ground the upper mount and drilled out the hole to suit the S13 adjustment bracket and although my machining was perfect... the hole didn't line up, and to make matters worse, the body of the alternator fouled the curved adjustment bracket. Fail. I then purchased a turnbuckle like yours and found that with the different alternator positioning, one of the turnbuckle lock nuts fouled the alternator. A few more washers to shim the rose joint to sit further behind the alternator and I was done.

 

Hey mate currently looking doing this conversion, can you share some details regarding the alternator belt used?

 

You use the standard factory S13 alternator belt. I'll throw up a guide when I have a chance, as there is some conflicting information on the net regarding this, hence I didn't realise that the pulley on the 125amp unit [i already owned] wasn't different to the S13 one.

 

If you want a simple installation, then do exactly the same as Kirk. Get [ONLY] a 125amp Nissan Quest alternator, a 90mm turnbuckle, some M8x35mm bolts, an oem S13 belt, drill the lower holes out to 10mm, drill the rear positive S13 harness eyelet out by 2mm, then it all bolts together like factory. If however you're concerned about the belt wearing and coming off due to the alternator pulley being 7mm too far forward, then make the mods that I did to the lower bracket, shim the difference using washers, shim the adjustment rose joint and call it a day.

 

Good info thanks for the quick simple write up!

 

"drill the rear positive S13 harness eyelet out by 2mm"

 

^^Same for s15 and still using s13 or s15 alt belt?

Edited by Pimp My Ride

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Good info thanks for the quick simple write up!

 

"drill the rear positive S13 harness eyelet out by 2mm"

 

^^Same for s15 and still using s13 or s15 alt belt?

 

No probs. Yeah, it should all be the same. The S15 alternator chassis is effectively the same as the S13 one, and the eyelet terminal on the harness will be the same size or bigger than the S13 one, so that should be easy to deal with.

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Good to hear the nulon gearbox treatment works wonders. I'm going to put a tube in with fresh redline mt90 before jamboree, hopefully makes my box a bit nicer to smash through the gears.

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