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Z32 vs Z33 Vs RB25 Vs ? Gearbox Options

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Somethings let go in the my gearbox yesterday at the track.

Was a rebuilt s15 box with welded up circlip, but semi slicks, solid centre clutch and efr 7163 was just too much.

I had planned to convert to Z33 but after reading the Alpha Omega blog on the install it does sound like a bit of a mess.

The Z32 may be a better option but my concern is losing the closer ratio. Zero farks for streetability. 6th gear etc.

 

Has anyone had any first hand or close to first hand experience with these boxes or have another option ?

I am a bit dubious about buying a second hand gearbox, is there a good way to test them out of the car ?

 

Cheers,

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I dont have any opinions on the gearboxes youve suggested, but id like to know how strong you think the s15 circlip modified box is. Do you think its capable of running 250-300rwkw with road tyres and organic sprung centre clutch for a daily driven s15. Im currently looking to upgrade to a gtx2863 on e85.

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I've had z32 and Z33 boxes. Z33 has much better ratios than Z32/R33. Should be just as strong. I've been running 300rwkw for nearly 2yrs with a solid button clutch and had no issues with mine. Just make sure you get one of the later CD009 Z33 boxes, the early ones had syncro issues.

 

I had a used and then a brand new Z32 and now a new Z33 box. Z33 shifts better than the ever Z32 did.

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I have a r33 box with a cut and shut bell housing. Modified shifter and 2 piece tailshaft. Using xtreme single plate clutch with v70's and about 250 rwkw. 2 years of track work and had no issues at all. My mate has an s15 with the alpha omega kit. 260rwkw daily driven for the last 5 years. The kit lined up perfectly. And clutch changes were easy.

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I smashed two 6 speeds in my 15, one with 220rwkw (Disco on 98 octane) and second on 245rwkw (Disco on E85). Changed to Z33, bought a brand new CD009, never looked back. Kit I used had an adapter plate, which fit no worries, and the shifter relocation bracket, which moved it as far forward as possible, but still had to cut out metal. There are some better shifter relocators being developed now which should not require any cutting, they're under testing now, so not available right this minute.

 

Other than that, glad I never went Z32 and have to change diff ratios and all that jazz.

 

Pulled some stuff of mine off another site for you, pics and stuff.

 

"So, some more to report after a few long nights last week. Some shots post-beating.

 

AF14CA27-B262-46C7-8454-AB07D1CA11EA_zpsjabitqee.jpg

9787FB16-1F89-41A6-9970-074504EF1302_zpsvdl2azxr.jpg

EEF6A06F-ECE4-47A3-8782-05BFEB957415_zpsuej8r9an.jpg

A7869311-8850-4C8E-A008-D6FF53CBAFEB_zps5bivsb9k.jpg

 

The bracing that follows the tunnel, which is what the gearbox cross member also bolts too, actually ended up beaten flat up top for more clearance.

 

16B3225C-4288-4519-83B3-EE6E56C86A7B_zps6pusdnvz.jpg

 

How much we had to cut. Had to cut more, basically widened the cut just past those rear bolt holes.

 

 

899E718F-104B-4E19-AF59-971110F5AF34_zps4j6dkygs.jpg

B0346E3B-641D-4D7C-9F75-63F2C535AC08_zpsmm3i2oaj.jpg

19934E31-0F80-45F2-BC0F-C876C7AD4801_zpsopn20p0f.jpg

EB2CE3E7-1C5A-45A6-B6A0-3716372D3662_zpsqepwlwau.jpg

F9DADD29-E4BD-4203-BE85-87E0A84AAE29_zpsqmej1fry.jpg

 

Clearance once the box was basically in place sitting on the cross member with a couple of bolts in, but no clutch. Did this so we could get a tail shaft measurement ASAP.

 

3A9721DB-2239-4CEC-AD97-1B767FBC718C_zps0jw8kdl4.jpg

AA4D9B1A-C615-4ED7-A287-32A3B5650FAF_zpshklqlmqj.jpg

 

How much we were able to shorten the striker rod by. It's basically cut it completely out past the little uni-joint and weld the two brackets back together flush. Shifter bracket that came with the kit dictates this position though.

 

1D88E757-4FD7-469F-B034-B21239BBC5D7_zps5vtufgog.jpg

78B117E1-AB78-4622-AD72-CD954071F522_zpsmildjbky.jpg

 

Was happy with my last Nismo Super Coppermix clutch kit for my 15 box, so went with a twin plate kit for 13/14 to suit the box. Should be future proof for more power down the track.

 

5DAA77EF-6F51-438C-B0D6-B4915822DB8C_zps18p23t0u.jpg

81C92D27-E4F7-49CF-B8AC-3656D4B91D76_zpsfhurms0u.jpg

 

Plate on for good, some loctite went on for good measure. New starter motor went on since mine sounded like Christy Mack choking on a fat one, and because the box has to come out if you ever need to get the starter out.

 

Also sprayed the tunnel with black stone guard shit, so it doesn't look so savage.

 

7472C339-2D1F-4197-A939-306FD7EC4629_zpsoqosaemz.jpg

240E4B1D-9F13-4454-8B27-984977D5DB07_zpshp1zjz4i.jpg

 

In for good. Still uses S chassis Nismo mount, which I already had, so bonus.

 

2BD9ECAA-4FAC-4AF0-80D3-00726810FBC3_zpsxvtrnht7.jpg

8EE4D55A-4289-4B8D-A86A-24B54098153F_zpslemlim4m.jpg

 

And finally, shifter location. It's probably around 100-150mm further back, which isn't bad for me. Felt fine sitting there holding the wheel and stick to get a feel of it.

 

Basically, if you haven't got the balls, or you give too many f**ks about cutting and beating your car up, this conversion isn't for you. For those of you that are past that stage of caring and want something that won't break, this is probably it.

 

So tail shaft is in transit, need a clutch line made up, need to find some sort of big universal rubber gear boot to bolt down, fill it up with oil and we're golden."

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I dont have any opinions on the gearboxes youve suggested, but id like to know how strong you think the s15 circlip modified box is. Do you think its capable of running 250-300rwkw with road tyres and organic sprung centre clutch for a daily driven s15. Im currently looking to upgrade to a gtx2863 on e85.

 

I was running 260rwkw but the car is a designated track car, no road use. I rebuilt the box and welded up the circlip. I was pretty easy on it at the track.

I am still not sure if it's the box or just a bearing or what. It has a bad knock that increases with revs and then pops the gear stick out.

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I've had z32 and Z33 boxes. Z33 has much better ratios than Z32/R33. Should be just as strong. I've been running 300rwkw for nearly 2yrs with a solid button clutch and had no issues with mine. Just make sure you get one of the later CD009 Z33 boxes, the early ones had syncro issues.

 

I had a used and then a brand new Z32 and now a new Z33 box. Z33 shifts better than the ever Z32 did.

 

Thanks Sam.

Are you still running the Z33 and what kit / shifter etc did you end up using ? Did you just get the box from Concept Z ?

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I have a r33 box with a cut and shut bell housing. Modified shifter and 2 piece tailshaft. Using xtreme single plate clutch with v70's and about 250 rwkw. 2 years of track work and had no issues at all. My mate has an s15 with the alpha omega kit. 260rwkw daily driven for the last 5 years. The kit lined up perfectly. And clutch changes were easy.

 

Thanks Sprint, was looking at the AO kit and their long discussion on how bad the Z33 was put me off.

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I smashed two 6 speeds in my 15, one with 220rwkw (Disco on 98 octane) and second on 245rwkw (Disco on E85). Changed to Z33, bought a brand new CD009, never looked back. Kit I used had an adapter plate, which fit no worries, and the shifter relocation bracket, which moved it as far forward as possible, but still had to cut out metal. There are some better shifter relocators being developed now which should not require any cutting, they're under testing now, so not available right this minute.

 

Other than that, glad I never went Z32 and have to change diff ratios and all that jazz.

 

Pulled some stuff of mine off another site for you, pics and stuff.

 

"So, some more to report after a few long nights last week. Some shots post-beating.

 

 

And finally, shifter location. It's probably around 100-150mm further back, which isn't bad for me. Felt fine sitting there holding the wheel and stick to get a feel of it.

 

Basically, if you haven't got the balls, or you give too many f**ks about cutting and beating your car up, this conversion isn't for you. For those of you that are past that stage of caring and want something that won't break, this is probably it.

 

So tail shaft is in transit, need a clutch line made up, need to find some sort of big universal rubber gear boot to bolt down, fill it up with oil and we're golden."

 

Thanks SJB87 that's great.

Can you also let me know what you kit you went for and what sort of tricks you had to do ?

Do you have to cut some casting sections off ? Can you use the existing slave ?

Have you get a thread somewhere I can have a look at ?

ZEROf**kS for cutting up the car, it was bought for beating up at the track with :) :)

 

p.s

Sorry I hadn't figured out the multi quote system yet !

I didn't expect so many helpful replies so thanks everyone !

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I've had z32 and Z33 boxes. Z33 has much better ratios than Z32/R33. Should be just as strong. I've been running 300rwkw for nearly 2yrs with a solid button clutch and had no issues with mine. Just make sure you get one of the later CD009 Z33 boxes, the early ones had syncro issues.

 

I had a used and then a brand new Z32 and now a new Z33 box. Z33 shifts better than the ever Z32 did.

 

Thanks Sam.

Are you still running the Z33 and what kit / shifter etc did you end up using ? Did you just get the box from Concept Z ?

 

Yeah still running it, haven't had the box out in the 2 yrs since I put it in.

 

It looks like SJB87 is using the same kit as me.

I'm using a Maverik motorsports kit and a CNC shifter bracket (not sure what brand they are, google images you will see it).

Using a factory shifter, I wouldn't want anything shorter, it's already got a pretty short throw.

 

I actually bought the box and kit from someone that bought 2 in when the dollar was really good, so not sure where it came from.

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Thanks SJB87 that's great.

Can you also let me know what you kit you went for and what sort of tricks you had to do ?

Do you have to cut some casting sections off ? Can you use the existing slave ?

Have you get a thread somewhere I can have a look at ?

ZEROf**kS for cutting up the car, it was bought for beating up at the track with :) :)

 

p.s

Sorry I hadn't figured out the multi quote system yet !

I didn't expect so many helpful replies so thanks everyone !

 

No worries mate. Had a thread over here:

 

http://forum.jdmstyletuning.com/showthread.php?25974-Sam-s-S15-Mediocrity-At-Its-Best&highlight=Sams

 

But don't post there much at all anymore, too many dumb *milkshakes* there now.

 

We basically sat the box in there, spray painted with silver where we had to beat, and yes, also cut some parts of the casting off that weren't needed. I reused my 15 slave, just needed a line made up as they sit on the opposite side as our stock boxes.

 

As above, I use a Maverick Motorsports kit. Does the job, haven't needed to change anything with the kit. Other than when I did the conversion I had an older Z33 box I picked up cheap years ago back in late 2011 or early 2012. Got it in and couldn't get third gear out on track. f**ked it off and bought a brand new one, no problems since.

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Hey Sam, do the splines on the 370Z box go far enough into the motor?

 

I read somewhere before some kits used only parts of the spline and yes with some torque it stripped them to bits

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I can't comment on the Z34 box. On mine I had to machine 10mm off the bell housing and had well over half, if not over 3/4 of splines engaged. Can't remember exactly, but with my uncle with me while doing it, a mechanic, he reckoned what we had was plenty.

 

But, as far as I know, the only difference between Z33 and Z34 is the slave cylinder design? So if input shafts and shit are all the same, and box dimensions are all the same then it should be sweet? I don't know, I don't like to assume these things.

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I only check mine by measuring it before I put it in, from memory it was within a mm or 2 of the z32 spline length.

 

I machined the 10mm off the bell housing as well. I also added a couple of dowels to the adapter plate and box to help line it up a bit more accurately.

 

I also bought my tailshaft from Shaftmasters in the US. Including postage it was cheaper to buy it from there, apparently the yokes are rare as well.

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wow... sounds like a head fuark...

 

we're putting a Z32 into Phil's S15 soon albeit all AO kit because the Z33/4 conversion seems way too hard in a S-chassis... but the Z33/4 box always is much more tempting

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All I'm going to say is, of course Alpha Omega is going to push for Z32 kits because they've pumped money into development for them.

 

Z33 has better ratios, no need to change diff ratios in a 15 and are generally a newer box unless you're buying brand new anyway.

 

I also ordered a shaft from Shaftmasters on the states, they have them all pre-made for a lot of conversions sitting on the shelf ready to go. A brand new alloy shaft was cheaper landed than a steel one made here. Work that one out.

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Hate to be a pain guys but could you please advise what exactly you asked for from ShaftMasters.

I thought being an S15 they would not have had the right measurements ?

Also any comments for Mavericks over Collins ?

 

Cheers,

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Z33 has better ratios, no need to change diff ratios in a 15 and are generally a newer box unless you're buying brand new anyway.

 

 

yeah massive pain in anoos.. looking for a S15 Auto turbo diff.. which should be better than the 3.6 then swap over the crown & pinon

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Hate to be a pain guys but could you please advise what exactly you asked for from ShaftMasters.

I thought being an S15 they would not have had the right measurements ?

Also any comments for Mavericks over Collins ?

 

Cheers,

 

Pretty sure S14 and S15 use the same length tailshafts. They have steel on ally shafts for ABS or non ABS. Just ask them, they were helpful when I was inquiring.

 

No idea on Maverick vs Collins. I know Maverick have sold a fair few. Both me and SJB87 have their kit without any major issues.

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Thanks Sam.

 

Pulled the box down.

Looks like the welds broke on the circlip !

Have to admit the welding wasn't that great. Had one of my best boilies do it which was surprising.

 

I think I'll just bite the bullet and go Z33.

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Last I was on Shaftmasters site they had a big page with tailshafts on it in list form with pictures. List would be like:

 

SR20 S13 with Z33 Steel

SR20 S13 with Z33 Alloy

SR20 S13 with R33 Steel

SR20 S13 with R33 Alloy

Etc.

 

Basically every combo with an SR20, KA24 or RB motor in the car they had a tailshaft for in either an S13/14. Every option in either alloy or steel, every option in either ABS/non-ABS.

 

They wanted a measurement off me for mine from the rear main seal of the gearbox to the face of the flange on the diff. Gave them that, they just wanted to double check as they were 95% certain that one of their S14 ABS shafts was going to fit, and it did.

 

3A2E9F88-164D-40B6-8217-E15061B0A29F_zpsesjxmbzd.jpg

 

6AAFC7A2-5B62-450B-A972-24B88E03CD08_zpsltgd5irk.jpg

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Just another question guys.

What clutch has to be run with the kit ? A s13/s14 style ?

Leaning towards giving the Mazworks a go.

 

Cheers,

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With my RB box, I ran a nismo coppermix twin plate for the SR20/S13. I think it's the same above for the Z33 (SJB87 I'm sure can clarify).

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Yeah, S13/14 clutch.

 

So don't forget, you'll also need a spigot bush for the crank since the spigot bushes are normally in the flywheel in S15's since the input shaft is shorter.

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Did you have to rework your dump/front pipe/exhaust setup because of the bigger Z33 bellhousing Sam?

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Dump I had was close, was a CES twin dump. Just needed a little bend with a lever bar on the wastegate pipe to clear it.

 

Now I've changed to a Tomei dump and HPi twin front pipe, only thing that came close was the flange on the Tomei dump to some of the casting on the Z33 box. Ran an air saw up in there and cut a little bit of the casting away. Happy days.

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Bit of an update. Big respect to ConceptZ !!

Paid for new Z33 box April 11, gearbox arrived today April 18. All the way from the states Arizona.

Maverick motorsports however, paid for the adapter kit March 21 and still not here...

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Received Maverick Motorsports kit. Adapter plate and trans bracket.

Ended up getting the Mazworks kit so the Mavericks is up for sale. Brand spankers still in box.

$750, cost $850 landed.

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