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Suspension.

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Just after some recommendations of good brands for camber and toe arms.

Thanks.

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What is your budget?

Do you want rubber bushings or pillow ball joints?

Is it predominately a street or track car?

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I'll spend what I have too. Would like something decent on the car. The camber and toe arms I have at the moment have a rubber bush and have split so I'd like to replace.

Car is a weekend car, hardly gets driven.

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I want to get some lowered springs (coil overs are illegal) that will keep me above the minimum 100mm clearance height yet still look good. Not easy...

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I'll spend what I have too. Would like something decent on the car. The camber and toe arms I have at the moment have a rubber bush and have split so I'd like to replace.

Car is a weekend car, hardly gets driven.

 

Buy Hardrace. I have all their upper control arms and castor rods in my 180sx, after they were recommended to my by another forum user. They live up to the hype; build quality is excellent, rubber casting is excellent and the adjustment is excellent.

 

The end result is that you have adjustable arms that behave like factory Nismo arms, providing of course you install them correctly, meaning that you dial them close to the mark, tighten the arms at static ride height and then lock in the final adjustment. As with any rubber bushed suspension arms, if you tighten the arms at full droop they will be crap and the rubber will probably tear.

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I want to get some lowered springs (coil overs are illegal) that will keep me above the minimum 100mm clearance height yet still look good. Not easy...

 

Look good or feel good? You only need to decide upon the final distance from the wheel center to the lip of the guard, then buy a set of springs to suit. Most manufactureres will be able to advise you of the amount of sag you'll experience once the springs have settled, and you should be able to pull up reference information about the factory springs (hence you'll know the base reference needed to select your part) from Whiteline. It's just a maths problem at the end of the day.

 

Most people around here just buy King springs, but to be honest, any super-low spring will make the ride quality terrible, so they're probably all going to be the same. When you're 100mm off the ground with the S13 you'll have very little piston stroke on the struts, so your springs will have to be a lot stiffer than factory and will overpower the dampers. Then you have the issue of the springs not being held captive like they would on an adjustable coilover, so any drops or jumps might see the springs pop out of position. Even if you're not one of the Duke's of Hazard, it can happen; I've gotten a little bit of air a bunch of times off mini ramps in shopping centers and the like.

 

Then you have the issues presented the lowering process itself, such that the control arms end up at terrible angles.

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You say springs make ride quality terrible?? Not all the time, mostly it's shitty dampers that make ride quality terrible. Unless the springs are way too high rate like 10 - 12 kg/mm on a street driven car

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No complaints with hardrace rubber bushed arms, aside from them rusting at my beach side palatial home.

 

Gktech are normal china crap with an australian price tag.

 

Honestly, retaining bushes is the biggest difference between having a nice car and a noisy, jittery, clunky piece of shit. That, and replacing all ball joints, because they are a service item and probably only get done when they are broken, not when they are due for replacing. Start of the year I replaced every bush and ball joint, new rubber everywhere. Car is the fastest on the road its ever been, and it's actually nice to be in, despite having cheap BC coilovers.

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You say springs make ride quality terrible?? Not all the time, mostly it's shitty dampers that make ride quality terrible. Unless the springs are way too high rate like 10 - 12 kg/mm on a street driven car

 

I'm just talking about "dumped on its guts" lowering springs (pretty much what s15rocket wants), which are either stiffer than oem to avoid bottom-out, or you're smacking the bump stops all the time. Either option is bad, and there's so little travel the dampers barely have the opportunity to work anyway. You're dead right when it comes to adjustable coilovers though.

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I want to get some lowered springs (coil overs are illegal) that will keep me above the minimum 100mm clearance height yet still look good. Not easy...

 

Look good or feel good? You only need to decide upon the final distance from the wheel center to the lip of the guard, then buy a set of springs to suit. Most manufactureres will be able to advise you of the amount of sag you'll experience once the springs have settled, and you should be able to pull up reference information about the factory springs (hence you'll know the base reference needed to select your part) from Whiteline. It's just a maths problem at the end of the day.

 

Most people around here just buy King springs, but to be honest, any super-low spring will make the ride quality terrible, so they're probably all going to be the same. When you're 100mm off the ground with the S13 you'll have very little piston stroke on the struts, so your springs will have to be a lot stiffer than factory and will overpower the dampers. Then you have the issue of the springs not being held captive like they would on an adjustable coilover, so any drops or jumps might see the springs pop out of position. Even if you're not one of the Duke's of Hazard, it can happen; I've gotten a little bit of air a bunch of times off mini ramps in shopping centers and the like.

 

Then you have the issues presented the lowering process itself, such that the control arms end up at terrible angles.

 

 

I probably need something that feels good as well. The roads in Brisbane are an absolute JOKE. Its like a 3rd world country here, pot holes, lumps and bumps, manhole lids everywhere. I never realized how good the roads were in Melbourne until I came here to Brisbane. Brisbane is way behind the ball in terms of road quality.

 

In my 180 I'm constantly swerving around the road avoiding potholes and lumps but they are mostly unavoidable and every time I hit one its like BANG, the whole car shutters and I can feel the vibration straight through my spine. Its really annoying tbh.Brisbane roads are not friendly to people with expensive sports cars I can tell you.

Edited by s15rocket

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^ ball joints are a service item and should be replaced every 20,000km or something like that. That was the biggest source my front end clunks over bumps. That an my rooted subframe bushes.

 

Start of the year I threw in hardrace castor, toe and camber arms, new LCA bushes/ball joints, new subframe bushes, in order to get an actual wheel alignment. Still running BC BR coilovers. My car isn't slammed, but it's not entirely sensible either.

 

It's the nicest combination I've had in a Silvia on the road.

 

The bushed arms really add a level of compliance I'm not used to in a Silvia. the car just takes bumps in its stride, even when you're attacking flat out

 

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Didn't know you actually went ahead and dropped the coin on a full set of the Hardrace gear Dean. Nice!

 

Ever end up splurging on some Recaros? :)

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Yeah, start of the year I overhauled everything. Still have a shit gearbox that pops out of 2nd, but now have GTR rear end and new rear bearings (again). Was really good til I noticed that the subframe is fucked from the shop around the corner stretching all the subframe bush holes to get the old bushes out... and all the LCA are furiously rusting where they've heated the fuck out of them to get the old bushes out with a tiny press. sigh. But the hardrace stuff works good for cheap china crap. Bushes FTW

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I've just purchased a set of Whiteline rear camber arms for my S15.

The instructions recommended they be installed in conjunction with adjustable toe arms.

Are rear toe arms necessary when correcting the usual s-chassis rear camber issues?

My car is lowered on coilovers, but the ride height is very conservative.

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Yes

 

If you adjust camber, it puts toe out

 

If you adjust toe, it puts camber out

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Yeah, start of the year I overhauled everything. Still have a shit gearbox that pops out of 2nd, but now have GTR rear end and new rear bearings (again). Was really good til I noticed that the subframe is fucked from the shop around the corner stretching all the subframe bush holes to get the old bushes out... and all the LCA are furiously rusting where they've heated the fuck out of them to get the old bushes out with a tiny press. sigh. But the hardrace stuff works good for cheap china crap. Bushes FTW

 

If you're still running an S13 subframe, then you're in luck my friend. I've just started overhauling the subframe that came with my car (weld in GKTech plates, sandblast, powdercoat, press in Nismo subframe bushes) to replace the one currently in my car. Should take a few weeks to finish the process, and once done, you're welcome to have the current subframe for 50 bucks mates-rates (saves me advertising it and helps you out). It seems straight as far as I can tell, four-bolt diff mount and the Whiteline urethane press-in bushes should be in good condition.

 

I'm 90% sure I have some spare rear LCAs too, as I got some bushes pressed into a set ages ago and never got around to fixing the shop's mistake of installing them backwards. The plan was to correct the error and use them, so once that's done, you're welcome to have the ones I'm currently using too.

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